Öko is a brand of the Prestige Beverage Group, specializing in the marketing of organic wines.

There are some nice wines occupying the organic niche. I doubt that organic grapes taste differently from healthy, conventionally grown grapes. But I do think producers who emphasize their organic credentials tend to make wines that have a simple, fresh profile without a lot of oak treatments or juice concentrate. They tend to make wines that fit their image. This Malbec  from Mendoza which includes 15% Bonarda in the blend is no exception.

Blueberry, floral highlights, and some green bell pepper that mingles with occasional smoke hints make up the simple aroma profile. This wine earns it keep on the palate which is buoyed by fresh red plum which hangs on through a drying, slightly abrasive finish, displaying prominent white pepper notes at its terminus.

This is a lean wine that lacks depth and concentration but there is enough fresh, juicy character to make it palatable.

An average wine but not without charm.

The music must be restrained but tuneful with a sense of innocence or naiveté, The Fleet Foxes Bedouin Dress

Score: 85

Price: $11

Alc: 13%

There is a debate among wine critics about whether we should write negative reviews. Most say they don’t have time to waste on bad wine. But film, art, and music critics write negative reviews and so do consumer guides. Negative reviews don’t take that much time to write—how many minutes does it take to write “it sucks”? And why are wines above criticism?

I was enthusiastic about this wine because I loved their Grüner Veltliner,  which I reviewed here. But we all know the fact a winery does one thing well is no indication that their whole lineup will impress. I know nothing and can find out very little about this winery. I suspect they buy grapes on the open market; and the fact that Argentinean Malbec has been in demand as the new “hot” grape for a few years now may mean only inferior grapes are available at a good price. That’s just speculation but it would explain this mediocre wine.

Simple black cherry on the nose with some earth notes that provoke mild interest. But the palate is meager and watery with muddy flavors and sour acidity that enters the picture early and monopolizes the finish. At least it is very dry. No standard signs of a flaw; just cheap grapes. Drinkable but you can do much better for less money. But if you like the label, well then…

Score: 81

Price: $10 (1 liter bottle)

Alc: 13%

I’ve been on a cheap Malbec kick lately.

This one’s from Bronco wines. In style it contrasts sharply with the Bodega De Elena I reviewed last week.

Light ruby in color with just a hint of the purple hue typical of Malbecs. Vegetal notes rule the subdued nose with generic berry aromas perceptible beneath the surface. A hint of earth gives the nose what interest it has. Bright, fresh fruit on a light to medium body but it lacks the weight and roundness typical of Malbecs. The finish is short and watery, with tannins barely discernible. This is a more refreshing, playful wine that the Bodega De Elena but there is not a lot of flavor. Simple and inoffensive but nothing praiseworthy. Don’t pay more than $7.

Score: 81

Alcohol: 13.5%

Price: $6-$10.