A quintessential supermarket wine, soft, approachable, and flawless with juicy flavors and enough acidity to keep you refreshed.
“Oak Cask” is Trapiche’s entry level line. But despite the name this Malbec is not overoaked.
Plum, subtle toast, and a hint of licorice on the nose. Black cherry and chocolate emerges on the round, medium-weight palate which features fine-grained tannins that sneak up on you, and firm acidity on the finish. It’s linear with a short finish but excellent quality for the price. You can take it (amost) anywhere without embarrassment.
Advertised as barrel aged for 9 months.
Score: 88
Price: $10
Alc: 14%
An Alicia Keys type wine, rich, approachable, flawless and oh so commercial
Cahors is a small appellation east of Bordeaux and best known as the sole remaining French redoubt of Malbec, which makes up at least 70% of the blend, supplemented by Tannat and Merlot. We don’t see Cahors much in the U.S. unless you chase it down, but it’s worth pursuing if only because the expression of Malbec is significantly different from the more common Argentinean Malbec. Argentinean Malbecs are typically soft, full bodied, and fruity. Cahors Malbecs are savory and meaty with firm tannins.
This bottling is worth checking out. The nose is reticent when first opened but complex and pleasant with chocolate kissed by cinnamon highlighting the blackberry aromas, with red currant, thyme and damp forest wood adding to the olfactory chorus. In the mouth, the initial blackberry disappears under a barrage of racy acidity that sends flavors of thyme, cola, and charred wood hurtling across the palate. The texture is an undulating wash. You sense movement more than a static mouthfeel, with a medium length finish propelled by acid and licorice notes, the tannins nicely round and supporting. This wine has loads of personality. The liveliness on the palate is compelling with acid pushing the upper bound.
Now for the odd part. I haven’t a clue about this winery. There is no information about it. However the back label translated reads “bottled at the Chateau by Chateau de Chambert”, a respected producer of quality Cahors. The Internet droppings suggest that Bevmo is its primary retail outlet. Perhaps we’re looking at a private label. At any rate, this is a good wine; grab it when you see it.
The energy in this wine reminds me of one of the great road songs of 70’s from the Dutch band Golden Earring:
The quality of Malbec coming out of Argentina can be uneven, but this one is flat-out gorgeous.
Sumptuous dark, berry aromas are bolstered with raisin, and lightly-charred oak, packed with dill, dried herbs and floral notes to top it off. Interesting and complex. The lush, soft, round palate adds chocolate to the picture. Despite the ripeness of the fruit, the wine is not ponderous but has sufficient acidity to give it a racy aspect. The tannins are ripe and smooth with a short but pleasant finish. 12-14 months on 50% new French oak.
Graceful yet sexy, a real crowd pleaser. If you need a wine to take to a party this is an excellent choice.
Sometimes there really is a perfect match of wine and song—the carnal energy of Marvin Gaye’s Let’s Get it On is just right.
Purple highlights in the glass give away the varietal. There is blackberry and a stealthy invasion of funky earth on the nose, just enough to remind you this is an agricultural product. Some brambly thyme notes and cranberry light up the the mid-palate. A hint of sweetness, but plenty of spice and character to keep sappy impressions to a minimum. Medium plus body with good, sharp acidity but it has the fruit to keep it balanced. The tannins are reticent but when they appear the finish become just a little coarse and rustic–in a good way.
I really like this wine at this price. Lots of dimension and balanced flavor. The literature from the producer claims 10 months in French and American Oak, 80% new. That is unusual for a wine in this price range.
Smoking Loon has fallen off my radar in recent years; this wine suggests I need to become reacquainted. This is one of Don Sebastiani and Sons’ labels—a large producer of supermarket wines. When you find a good one, it makes plowing through the plonk worthwhile.
To accompany this wine, you’ll want some shit-kickin’ music with a touch of class. How about some Bonnie Raitt?
Malbec from Argentina may be the hot new grape but in Cahors, a region in Southwest France, they’ve been growing it since the Romans ruled. Although originally a Bordeaux varietal, the Bordelais gave up on the grape after the 1956 frost killed off most of the vines. But the folks in Cahors soldier on with this difficult grape and succeed in making some remarkable wines. Fresh, soft, and fruit-forward when grown in Argentina, in Cahors, Malbec is savory and meaty with surprisingly robust tannins for a thin-skinned grape.
This Clos La Coutale is no exception. Red licorice, olives, and cardamom on the nose. With aeration, cedar notes gain prominence. The medium-bodied palate shows blueberry enlivened by medium plus acidity with sandy tannins that are beginning to back off after a few years in the bottle. Excellent depth and focus make this an interesting wine for the price but some tartness and bitterness mar the rustic finish. 80% Malbec and 20% Merlot, this wine has so much personality, even its flaws are loveable. If you’re part of the Malbec craze, this gem puts some of the lesser Argentinean pretenders to shame.
It is estimated that about 40% of world-wide wine exports are shipped in bulk. The grapes are harvested and the wine made in its home country and then is put in huge 24,000 liter plastic bladders to be shipped across the world and bottled closer to where it will be sold. Shipping in bulk is cheaper and produces fewer carbon emissions than shipping in bottles. And it’s better for the wine too. Bulk wine is less likely to experience temperature fluctuations because a single large volume of liquid will not change temperature as quickly as a small volume. Of course, who knows how many distinct labels will sell the very same wine—but who cares if it’s under $10. It’s generic wine.
Such is the case with the cutely-named V.No Malbec. Grapes harvested in Mendoza, bottled in Acampo California by Constellation Brands.
And in the end, it’s OK. Nondescript but pleasant and very drinkable. A murky nose with indistinct fruit and loam and without much intensity. But on the palate, plenty of dark fruit and allspice, very well balanced, round, medium bodied with soft tannins and some prominent acidity on the finish that gives it zing. For a budget wine this is quite good, not a hair out of place, and unless you are an aroma hound very satisfying.
There is a debate among wine critics about whether we should write negative reviews. Most say they don’t have time to waste on bad wine. But film, art, and music critics write negative reviews and so do consumer guides. Negative reviews don’t take that much time to write—how many minutes does it take to write “it sucks”? And why are wines above criticism?
I was enthusiastic about this wine because I loved their Grüner Veltliner, which I reviewed here. But we all know the fact a winery does one thing well is no indication that their whole lineup will impress. I know nothing and can find out very little about this winery. I suspect they buy grapes on the open market; and the fact that Argentinean Malbec has been in demand as the new “hot” grape for a few years now may mean only inferior grapes are available at a good price. That’s just speculation but it would explain this mediocre wine.
Simple black cherry on the nose with some earth notes that provoke mild interest. But the palate is meager and watery with muddy flavors and sour acidity that enters the picture early and monopolizes the finish. At least it is very dry. No standard signs of a flaw; just cheap grapes. Drinkable but you can do much better for less money. But if you like the label, well then…
A unique approach, more old world in style, and a change of pace from all the soft, round, sweet Malbec on the bottom shelf. Berry aromas, dusty earth, and wood notes on the nose. The berry and coffee flavors on the medium-weight palate are quickly consumed by dry, dusty tannins that drive the medium length finish. Good intensity but a bit austere in the mouth compared to most supermarket wines. Produced by Bodega Viñas de Vila, a large Argentinean producer in Mendoza.
Recommended if you’re looking for something a little different.
This one’s from Bronco wines. In style it contrasts sharply with the Bodega De Elena I reviewed last week.
Light ruby in color with just a hint of the purple hue typical of Malbecs. Vegetal notes rule the subdued nose with generic berry aromas perceptible beneath the surface. A hint of earth gives the nose what interest it has. Bright, fresh fruit on a light to medium body but it lacks the weight and roundness typical of Malbecs. The finish is short and watery, with tannins barely discernible. This is a more refreshing, playful wine that the Bodega De Elena but there is not a lot of flavor. Simple and inoffensive but nothing praiseworthy. Don’t pay more than $7.
You wouldn’t know it from the label, which refers lovingly to the “home at the foot of the Andes” , but this wine is from E.J. Gallo.
The nose and palate are intense for a cheap wine, black cherry and generic berry aromas and raisins dominate but are slightly stewed, a whiff of alcohol and green vegetal notes mar the nose but it is pleasant enough. Some subtle woodiness suggests oak chips deftly applied.
The palate flavors turn darker but still have the stewed character. This is a medium body wine with just enough acidity to support the fruit so the wine remains refreshing. Chocolate shows on the medium length finish with very soft tannins.
I didn’t enjoy the stewed aromas but the intensity and full flavor make this a good bargain, especially if you’re serving steak.
Score: 83
Alcohol: 13.5%
Price: Average price is $8 but I often see it for $6
A quintessential supermarket wine, soft, approachable, and flawless with juicy flavors and enough acidity to keep you refreshed.
