Category Archives: Wine Reviews

Idaho Wine: Will Work for Grapes

16 Wednesday Aug 2017

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The Snake River Valley

Idaho is probably not the first state that comes to mind when the topic of U.S. wine comes up. But if you’ve been paying attention to the wine press lately, Idaho, especially the Snake River Valley AVA near Boise, is beginning to get some attention. And for good reason. They make good wine here. After all, the Snake River AVA crosses the Washington border and Eastern Washington is, of course, a prime wine grape region. In fact, you can think of Idaho as Washington’s adolescent off-spring, still dependent on mom and dad but quickly gaining autonomy.

Idaho, like Eastern Washington, has a continental climate (6-8 inches of rain per year) with hot, dry summers producing concentrated fruit flavor and cold winters allowing vines to go dormant and killing off diseases that threaten the vines. Both occupy a northern latitude so they have summertime daylight well into the late evening, and both have strong diurnal temperature shifts with nighttime temperatures dropping into the 50’s for much of the summer helping to keep acidity in the grapes. The differences are primarily in the general soil types and elevation. Idaho has soils formed from volcanic ash; Washington does too but with a higher percentage of glacial deposits. Perhaps more importantly, Idaho vineyards  are generally much higher in elevation, reaching as high as 3000 feet above sea level which explains one of their biggest challenges—getting their vineyards to survive winter kill and early autumn frost.

Case in point—2017. While Washington vineyards suffered some crop losses from this unusually cold winter and as of this writing yields are uncertain, Idaho vineyards were devastated. The Boise area typically gets only 4-6 inches of snow per year.  The winter of 2017 dumped 37 inches of snow on the region with unusual cold snaps that extended for days on end. Extended cold weather destroys the fruit buds that had formed the previous summer sharply reducing yields. Only the vineyards with good air flow draining off the cold air will get much yield this year. Happily, since most of the vines are own-rooted and have no grafts exposed to the elements, the vine trunks and root systems survived and vineyards should be back to normal in a year or two. There will be plenty of grapes to make wine in 2017 but they will have to rely on fruit from Washington State where many Idaho producers have long term relationships and contracts.

There are now over 50 wineries in Idaho (up from 11 in 2002) and most are located in the southwestern portion of the Snake River Valley with a few scattered though the eastern part of the valley. The Snake River AVA became official in 2007 and now includes, as a sub-region, the Eagle Foothills AVA just north of Boise. The Lewis-Clark Valley AVA was added in 2016 and occupies the border of Idaho and Washington in the northern part of the state where the Snake River intersects with the Clearwater River. All of this activity is testimony to the enormous potential of this region. Although Idaho has about 1200 acres under vine, a recent survey concluded that theoretically there is the potential for about 50,000 acres.

The main difficulty is securing enough local fruit for the burgeoning wine business in Boise. As noted, most of the wineries here have a tradition of getting some fruit from Washington. Many wineries would like to make wine exclusively from Idaho grapes and they do so when possible. But the need for more vineyards was a constant plea we heard in talking to people in the Idaho wine business. As Moya Dolsby, Executive Director of the Idaho Wine Commission told us, “If we’re going to reach our potential, we need to get more vines in the ground.” Furthermore, when I asked one prominent winemaker if the growers here were grape growers or wine grape growers, he smiled and said “no comment”. The demand for quality grapes is outstripping supply even when the weather cooperates.

In Idaho, winemaking is a bit more advanced than the viticulture in part because lots of winemaking talent from Washington and California migrated here seeking the less crowded, less expensive, slower paced, yet nevertheless urban lifestyle offered by Boise. That probably also explains one of the really unique facts about Idaho—the high percentage of female winemakers. I don’t have comprehensive stats but, according to one count , 22% of the winemakers in Idaho are women including several of the top ten Snake River wineries. Melanie Krause, winemaker and co-owner of Cinder Winery, told me that she returned to her home in Idaho after working for Washington State’s Chateau Ste. Michelle because it was a better atmosphere for raising her family. Many women in Idaho’s wine industry have made a similar decision.

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Vineyard workers at Koenig Vineyards

Warm to hot, daytime, summer temperatures allow most varietals to ripen in Idaho despite the short growing season. Bud break is typically around the 2nd week of April and harvest is usually finished by Halloween. Riesling, Chardonnay and the Bordeaux grapes, especially Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, have been the primary varietals but there is a lot of excitement about Viognier, Syrah, Tempranillo, Malbec, and even Petite Verdot and Petite Sirah, although plantings of the latter two are miniscule at the moment. My own personal opinion: It’s a bit hot for Riesling here. The Riesling we tasted  was acceptable but not special, although Cinder’s off-dry Riesling was an exception. The Chardonnay was mostly clunky with too much oak. Viognier, although a difficult grape,  is more promising and we tasted several brilliant examples that had the aromatic intensity and generous mouthfeel expected of that grape.  As for reds, the playing field is wide open although Cabernet Sauvignon gets sufficiently ripe only in the best vintages. I asked Earl Sullivan of Telaya if there was a distinctive flavor profile that distinguished Idaho from other regions and, he replied, “not yet”. “We’re still trying to figure out what Idaho wine is”. Melanie Krause of Cinder thinks Idaho reds tend to be more elegant with softer tannins than comparable wines from Washington. I agree with her observation but whether that has to do with the soil, the climate, or stylistic choices among winemakers, it’s hard to say. There are too many microclimates and soil types and only a few examples of some varietals being grown here to make generalizations at this point. Diversity may be their strength here.

With Boise’s rapid growth, a population increasingly interested in wine, available land, and its position as a gateway to markets in the the Mountain West, there is great potential here and I  suspect we will continue to hear good things about Idaho wines.

The largest winery in the state has long been Ste. Chapelle (est. 1975) which produces 125,000 cases per year. But they use mostly Washington fruit and have not as yet made a commitment to developing Idaho as a region. Moya Dolsby said most wineries produce between 3000 and 7000 cases per year so this is a region where artisan production reigns, and it is those small producers that we focused on in our tasting.

Here are the wineries we found to be most impressive:

Cinder Winery

All the wines from this urban winery near Boise hit my sweet spot. Winemaker Melanie Krause achieves an elegant, graceful style picking grapes at around 21-22 degrees brix to achieve great balance and freshness. Each wine in their lineup has finesse, pure fruit expression, and complexity. The Chardonnays (2015 and 2016) were head and shoulders above others in Snake River, largely because of Melanie’s deft hand with new oak. A gorgeous Viognier (their flagship wine), an intriguing blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Chenin Blanc called Laissez Faire, and an off dry Riesling that was the best of this varietal we tasted rounds out the whites. The Laissez Faire red (Sangiovese and Mourvedre) makes a fine table wine, but the 2014 Tempranillo, 2014 Bordeaux-style blend, and the 2015 Syrah were outstanding. See my review of their “foot stomp” Syrah here. I don’t normally assign points when making winery visits but all these wines are in the 90-92 point range and can compete with comparable wines from Washington or California.

Telaya

Winemaker Earl Sullivan is a stickler for cleanliness, perhaps a holdover value from his years in the pharmaceutical industry. As far as I know, his is the only winery that seals their production room and blasts it with ozone every night to kill any critters that might be lurking. Telaya uses about 60% Idaho fruit, filling in with grapes from Washington State when the Idaho fruit doesn’t meet Earl’s exacting standards. The results of his attention to detail are wines of great clarity and precision all with the silky textures that define his style of winemaking. A tasty Viognier, and an especially vibrant, textured  Grenache Blanc were the standout whites.  A Malbec featuring bright, bing cherry aromas and a luscious mouthfeel, a blend of Syrah, Malbec and Merlot called Turus (2014) which showed intriguing smoke and meat aromas, and the outstanding 2015 Red Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon (see my review here) completed the tasting menu. Telaya is one of several urban wineries along the Boise River just north of the city. They serve food and host frequent musical performances as well giving the burgeoning Boise population a full service venue in which to indulge their wine cravings.

Split Rail Winery

Every wine region needs a maverick to keep complacency from settling in. In the Snake River Valley that person is Jed Glavin. From his use of egg-shaped, concrete fermentation vessels to his attempt to market wine in cans for the hikers and campers who need their wilderness wine fix, Jed is one of those creative types who seem to have a new idea every minute: he’s interested in natural wines, is experimenting with a pet-net (a sparkling wine made by allowing the CO2 to develop from the first fermentation in the bottle), and wants to make a sour Chardonnay by inoculating the wine with Brett (a form of yeast that induces funky flavors often considered a flaw). It’s a good thing he makes good wine. The 2016 Exploding Mirror (Roussane and Viognier) was refreshing and full of flavor as was the 2016 Dry Rosé made from Cinsault. The blend of Mourvedre and Syrah was spicy with white pepper and a Rhone-like blood and iron flavor note. But my favorite was the 2014 Petite Verdot, a grape getting some attention here, despite being in short supply, because it seems to grow well in Idaho. Split Rail’s is floral, soft on the palate with spicy tannins providing structure. Split Rail is another of the urban wineries just north of Boise.

 

The following wineries are in the Sunnyslope area west of Boise near the Snake River:

Huston Vineyards

Greg and Mary Alder grew up on an Idaho farm, but a visit to Napa and the opportunity to acquire land and vines at a good price convinced them to grow grapes. Their Huston label is 100% Idaho grapes; their Chicken Dinner label is table wine sourced from all over the Pacific Northwest. Maybe it was the vintage; 2014 was an incredibly good year. But these reds are lovely. A rich, earthy, Malbec, and a juicy, lush Cabernet Sauvignon with refined tannins impressed but the star is their Private Reserve Petite Sirah (2014). Rich fig, chocolate, and berry notes supported by fine-grained yet structured tannins. There is only about 1 acre of Petite Sirah in the whole state. More

Koenig Winery

Using all local grapes, this winery does an excellent job with Cabernet Sauvignon. This is a difficult grape to get ripe in Idaho at least in some vintages. Koenig deals with this problem by making a more European style Cab—earthy, structured with high acidity. Their Hell’s Canyon 2014 Cab needs more time to settle down but it’s a serious wine. The Fraser Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon is softer and more accessible. They also feature a Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah blend called Cuvee Alden 2012 that was drinking well, showing berry and chocolate notes with a lush mouthfeel; and an accessible 2014 Syrah with ripe berry notes and sleek minerality. Among the white wines, the 2014 dry Riesling was impressive–delicate but textured with lovely lime and apricot on the nose. Their 2016 Viognier was fresh and crisp showing floral and tropical notes.

Fujishin Family Cellars

Sourcing almost all their grapes from within a 20 mile radius of their winery, Fujishin’s flagship Viognier from 2016 was definitely impressive. Pear and floral notes introduced the lovely, textured mouthfeel and long mineral-driven finish. The Cabernet/Syrah blend was rich with berry and earth notes and offered a smooth midpalate with a long, somewhat rustic finish. But the red wine that attracted my attention was their 2013 Petite Sirah—lots of berry, smoke, cocoa and tannins under control from 2 yrs. in American oak

Wine Review: Telaya Cabernet Sauvignon Red Mountain 2015

15 Tuesday Aug 2017

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telayaWith his production facility located just north of Boise, Idaho, winemaker Earl Sullivan is committed to using Idaho grapes when possible, but the growing season is too short to consistently get the ripeness he wants from Cabernet Sauvignon so he sources from Washington State’s acclaimed Red Mountain AVA with it’s unique loess soils. Blended with 7% Petite Verdot, this Cabernet sees 20 months on new and used French oak. The result is a polished wine that packs a surprise.

Aromas of chocolate-covered, black cherry mingle with cinnamon-inflected vanilla, a real charmer during introductions. In the mouth the wine is rich, silky, and polished bursting with juicy, fresh-tasting fruit. But, as the midpalate shades into flavors of hi-toast oak, the intensity ratchets up building energy and density, filling the mouth with darkness. Sabotage, a reckless moment of rebellion, disrupts the good cheer. Alas the polished fruit returns, leisurely lingering on the medium length finish although it is transformed, toughened by hi-toned acidity, char, and firm but fine-grained tannins.

The wine plays with you, a hint of malevolence beneath the polished veneer as if rebelling against its own nature. With time in the bottle it may return to the family. It needs time.

But in the meantime, Rebel Yell is its battle cry:

Score: 91

Price: $40

Alc: 15.5%

Wine Review: Cinder “Foot Stomp” Syrah Snake River Valley Idaho 2014

08 Tuesday Aug 2017

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Of the many wineries we visited in our recent stay in Idaho, it was Cinder’s wines that really captured my attention, especially this small batch Syrah made using very traditional methods—hand harvested, crushed by bare feet stomping on whole clusters with stem inclusion, co-fermented with 5% Viognier and aged in 40% new oak for 16 months.

Winemaker Melanie Krause aims for grace and elegance picking fruit at a slightly lower brix level (21-22 degrees) than most of her colleagues. The result really does live up to the slogan “poetry in a bottle”.  It helps that 2014 in Idaho was a banner vintage.

A complex nose with good intensity, herbal and mint aromas mingle with dark and red berry flavors against a background of dusty earth and damp leaves. The cranberry-inflected palate features a luscious layer of urbane, polished juice supporting rollicking, lifted acidity that carries through the peppery, medium length finish. Firm but refined tannins. Wonderfully fresh, but with great depth. Think contemporary Côte-Rôtie but with more weight.

The acid numbers seem standard for Syrah (6.9 g/L, PH 3.77) but the perceived acidity pops, which is what happens when you pick a little early.

The “Foot Stomp” Syrah exudes graceful warmth and soothing sophistication but with some tension playing about the edges as exemplified by Eliane Elias’s version of Ravel’s Sonatine: Anime.

Score: 92

Price: n/a

Alc: 14.5%

Wine Review: Baco Noir from Bradley Vineyards and Girardet, Umpqua Valley

01 Tuesday Aug 2017

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It is a great day when I discover a new varietal that expands the universe of what wine can be. I’ve tasted Baco Noir before and was not particularly impressed, but these two from different sub-regions of Southern Oregon have overcome my previous skepticism. This is an extraordinary grape in the right hands and deserves much more attention than it has thus far received.

Baco Noir is an American hybrid grape made by crossing  the French varietal Folle Blanche (often used to make Cognac, especially Armagnac) and an unknown American grape from the Vitis Riperia species. It was developed by a French grape breeder François Baco  in 1894 in an attempt to create a phylloxera-resistant vine that would produce a recognizably French wine. Its virtues are that it can withstand cold winter temperatures and returns good yields, so it’s planted heavily in the Great Lakes and other northerly regions but largely ignored in France except in Cognac production. Southern Oregon does not suffer from excessively cold winters but their hot summers reveals another virtue—it makes a deep, rich, dynamic wine.

Girardet’s version is from their estate vineyards in Umpqua Valley. The cuttings for their plants were imported by Philippe Girardet in 1971 from his family’s vineyards in Switzerland. These are the first Baco Noir plants in the U.S.

Bradley Vineyards Baco Noir is from the cool, maritime-influenced Elkton AVA, part of the larger Umpqua region. Both are intriguing but are distinctly different wines. Which do I like best? It depends on what’s for dinner. Girardet’s is lighter, more ethereal and versatile as a food wine. Bradley’s is too big for anything but robust meat dishes. Bradley Vineyard’s version is riper and more extracted than Girardet’s but both are charming and fascinating. This really feels like a very successful first date.

girardetGirardet Vineyards Baco Noir Umpqua Valley 2015

The nose is intriguingly complex–red plum, dark berry, thyme, and hints of chocolate and smoke. But on the palate here lies excitement.

Most accessible, ready to drink, red wines peak at midpalate and then come down to earth finding a foundation in push concentrated fruit or supple, polished tannins with noticeable grain.

This one opens with broad, expansive juiciness, climbs to the ridge line with bristling, stony minerality supported by a core of lovely sweet black cherry, and then launches into orbit with a lifted, prickly finish. A wonderful orbit by the way. Very subtle tannins and not a hint of sourness, just terrific tension and energy, a feeling best captured by Ralph Towner’s soaring Icarus.

Score: 90

Price: $34

Alc: 13.2%

Aged 7 months in neutral, French oak.

 

bradley bacoBradley Vineyards Baco Noir Reserve Elkton Oregon 2015

Lovely chocolate and caramel meld with raisin aromas of great intensity although there is a bit of exposed alcohol. Smoky cedar develops with aeration. In a blind tasting on the basis of the aromas I would guess Amarone. These flavors are very ripe and concentrated for a cool climate growing region such as Elkton, but 2015 was that kind of warm year with a long growing season.

In the mouth a rich, juicy, viscous entrée gives way to scintillating acidity tamed by persistent chocolate notes, and then we get blast off—a long finish of searing acidity supported by lovely fine grained tannins, luxuriant fruit but some alcoholic heat. Full bodied with alcohol off the charts but the acidity gives this wine life.

This is flat out luscious and shares with Coltrane’s A Love Supreme Part 1 a  coiled energy ready to explode inside all that sumptuousness.

Score: 90

Price: $38

Alc: 16.9%

Wine Review: Umpqua Innovations

25 Tuesday Jul 2017

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Oregon’s Umpqua River Valley AVA, situated between the better-known Willamette Valley to the north and the Ashland-anchored Rogue Valley AVA to the south is rural, wild (as in surrounded by wilderness areas) and happily unconventional when it comes to winemaking.

Here are three unusual yet quite beautiful wines I came across on our recent visit.

 

paul obrien orsatonPaul O’Brien Winery Orsation Riesling   Umpqua Valley 2015

Straw with gold highlights, this is a skin-contact white wine in the Alsatian style, left on the skins for 14 hours, barrel fermented, lees stirred every week for 4 months, every trick in the book to bring out these toothsome textures.

Aromas of bold baked apple , pear and white flower highlights promise hedonistic vitality and the palate delivers. Intensely honeyed and viscous up front, it features a textured midpalate with layers of prickle on top of puckering, stony minerality with etched tannins providing subterranean heft. The finish is long, driven by clean fresh fruit and Riesling’s scintillating acidity. Off dry but not a dessert wine.

A very big wine, broad shouldered but full of sensuous charm like Karen Oh’s Maps

Score: 91

Price: $26

Alc: 12%

 

Reustle Prayer Rock Vineyards Grüner Veltliner Winemaker’s Reserve Umpqua Valley 2014

reustleA varietal seldom grown in the U.S. but introduced by Reustle, I’ve never tasted a domestic Grüner this good. Showing white pepper, fruit salad, and quince paste, the nose is tranquil, pretty but restrained.  It’s sumptuous yet weightless in the mouth, off-dry, with rich honeydew and orange peel set off by burgeoning minerality closing the midpalate.  The textural evolution is lovely transitioning from lush to a more bracing experience with a granular weave to a finish like pure spring water but with chalk and incisive acidity providing heft.

The overall impression is of fresh vitality but the slow evolution brings thoughts of the past, wistful and reflective like Diana Krall’s Departure Bay

Score: 92

Price: $29

Alc: 12.8%

 

Hillcrest Vineyards “Arpad” Bull’s Blood Reserva Umpqua Valley 2009

bulls bloodBull’s blood, (aka Egri Bikavér) is a legendary Hungarian wine, earning it’s name in a 16th Century war with Turkish invaders. The local wine was alleged to be fortified with bull’s blood giving the troops the courage to hold off the siege. Typically a Kékfrankos–based blend, the Hungarian versions I’ve tasted are bold and rustic. This version from Oregon’s Hillcrest Vineyards carries on that old world tradition in the new world.

New leather, damp leaves, with a dried fig foundation, floral notes from the pinot, hints of vanilla with aeration—there’s a lot going on here as there should be when you put Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir, and Tempranillo in the same bottle.

On the palate a rush of high acidity appears straight off, introducing a steely midpalate with coffee highlights  and then a tense, galvanic finish unfolding on finely knit tannins. Pretty with aromatic depth, but it’s not for the fainthearted. It has a tough, rustic charm with a distinctive personality and an odd relationship with oxygen. It is full and lush out of the bottle but 5-10 minutes in the glass finds the fruit power receding replaced by clerical severity.

What better music to pair with  Bull’s Blood than this traditional Hungarian folk song performed by an incredibly talented duo.

Score: 88

Price: $28

Alc: 13.5%

Wine Review: The Southern Oregon Tempranillo Face-Off

18 Tuesday Jul 2017

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2012UpquaRiberaTempranilloTempranillo is the grape most wine-focused Southern Oregonians are excited about. It is well- suited to the short, hot growing season here and no other American wine region has claimed it as their own. Given the interest in this grape,  I decided to do a blind tasting comparing three top Tempranillos from Umpqua Valley with the most impressive from the Rogue Valley.

As a comparison of these regions this is obviously a very limited test given the small sample size. The fact that one of the entries is blended with about 20% Cabernet and has an additional year of bottle age means we lack a grapes-to-grapes comparison. But the results are nevertheless interesting. All wines were initially tasted single blind to get initial tasting notes and a provisional ranking. Then each wine was tasted non-blind over several hours to gain greater insight.

The winner? A very close call between the top two.

1.  Hillcrest Vineyards Tempranillo “Umpqua Ribera” Umpqua Valley 2012

Winemaker Dyson Demara made this wine to be a “spittin’” image of Ribera Del Duero’s Vega Sicilia Unico. Since Vega Sicilia happens to be one of my favorite wines it’s not surprising that I picked this out in the blind tasting as the standout. Good aromatic intensity but what sets it apart is depth, a wine that promises mystery with its flavor. Aromas of dark fruit, fig and mocha are set against a background of gentle vanilla and mint emerging with aeration, and indefinable complexity that seems to hover just below the threshold of detection. The palate reveals a long, seamless evolution from dusty earth with coriander notes through waves of cola to a broad-shouldered chewy finish with top notes paradoxically suggesting cool, mountain spring water. Serious, stately but with fortitude and intimations of the mystical. Blended with 20% Cabernet Sauvignon 93 pts.

2.  Paul O’Brien  Tempranillo Cask 11 Umpqua Valley 2014

A very close second, this has bright, fresh cherry aromas, standing out against a duo of leather and damp leaves and  developing coffee with aeration. Great clarity and focus. The palate is juicy, broad and lush but gathers intensity at midpalate with a rush of crisp acidity. The tannins unfurl gently persisting as a low level prickle, supporting a long peppery finish with electric minerality closing the proceedings. I love the finish on this wine. It achieves power without relying on excessive tannin. An extrovert but dignified and graceful. This wine was fermented and aged in a large 900L French cask, very old school.   92 pts.

3. Abacela Tempranillo Barrel Select Umpqua Valley 2013

Dark plum on the nose with enticing leather and wisps of smoke. A note hovering between herbal and floral adds complexity but the aromas are more muted than the competitors.  This wine has a darker aspect, earthy, and brooding with lots of medium grain tannin, which gives it some rusticity. The finish is juicy but shows too much wood. It needs time to soften. Abacela was the first to plant Tempranillo in this region in 1995. 89pts.

4. Kriselle Tempranillo Rogue Valley 2013

What an odd experience with this wine. In the tasting room it was very impressive showing great intensity and originality. During the blind tasting it leaped from the glass with more aromatic intensity than all the others in the line up. But as I continued to sample the wine I became less enamored and the wine started to cloy. Explosive, new leather, smoked meats and caramel on the nose promise complexity. And in the mouth, the first impression is round and full with refreshing acidity complementing black cherry. But a harsh tobacco flavor pushes to the fore midpalate that throws the wine out of balance, giving way to a finish of fine grained tannins but with some exposed wood and bitter wood tannins that become more prominent with aeration. Bombastic and then turning fierce, with 30 months in French, Hungarian, and American oak, 35% new, it just seems overdone.  Points for originality. 88 Pts.

Tempranillo has a lot of potential in Southern Oregon but getting the oak right is a challenge.

Wine Review: Cowhorn Syrah 21 Applegate Valley 2013

11 Tuesday Jul 2017

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Cowhorn_2013-Syrah-21-1I’ve been tasting lots of biodynamic wines lately and I’m beginning to think they tend to share a common flavor profile—fresh bright fruit and a stony or chalky minerality that is especially apparent on the finish. Cowhorn is Southern Oregon’s only biodynamic winery to date and their wines have that distinctive mineral profile.

On the palate the minerality appears in phases of fluent transitions, a hint of it at inception as the juicy berry fruit dominates, then a dazzling surge at midpalate, and as the fruit fades on the finish it’s like licking a stone. Full bodied yet elegant, the refined tannins are supportive rather than commanding with the finish propelled by acidity and minerality.

Ardent aromas of blackberry and red raspberry mingle with black pepper and a lovely duet of smoked meat and eucalyptus that marry nicely on the nose.

A beautiful wine, and when have you seen a U.S. Syrah at 13.3% alcohol?

The number 21 refers to the frost hours during the growing season, a convention they display on many of their wines indicating the degree of ripeness one might expect. 21 is a reasonably low number for this region.

Score: 91

Price: $45

Alc: 13.4%

Energetic, brassy when that minerality hits, even a little fierce, like Trombone Shorty’s Fire on the Bayou, especially when that “bone” sings:

Wine Review: Littorai Savoy Vineyard Pinot Noir Anderson Valley 2010

04 Tuesday Jul 2017

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littoraiBiodynamic farming is one of the most significant new trends in the wine world although Ted Lemon at Littorai has been exploring biodynamics since the late 1990’s, long before it was hip.  Despite its recent cachet biodynamics has a long history.  Reacting against the expanded use of newly developed fertilizers in the 1920’s, philosopher and spiritualist Rudolph Steiner developed farming methods using only what could be found in nature, viewing the whole farm as a self-sustaining system. This included the use of humus as fertilizers and herbal teas to ward off pests, but also such questionable practices as stuffing the compost in a cowhorn and burying it in the soil and harvesting grapes based on phases of the moon or the position of the planets, all of which is supposed to harness “cosmic forces” in support of growing better crops.

Viticultural scientists are largely skeptical of all of this although some are convinced there is something going on that contributes to vine and soil health. Despite some of the metaphysical musings, biodynamic farming is rigorously sustainable and also forces winemakers and viticulturalists to focus intently on the health of their vineyard ecology. And there is anecdotal evidence that the wines taste differently. In some blind tasting panels biodynamic wines have been deemed superior by impressive margins, and Jancis Robinson reports they tend to have more florality and life than wines made from conventionally farmed grapes. At any rate some of the most esteemed producers in the world such as Dominio de Pingus, Olivier Humbrecht, and Chapoutier are exclusively biodynamic.

Littorai’s Ted Lemon takes a bemused attitude toward some of the extravagant metaphysical claims associated with biodyanamics and he eschews as just marketing the official biodyanamic certification from the Demeter organization. But a tour of his Sonoma operation shows a rigorous adherence to the principles of whole-vineyard ecology and sustainability. Goats, cows, ducks and chickens patrol his property sharing space with attractive gardens of flowers and herbs used to make the teas.somoma-littorai Great care is taken to direct all waste to the compost pile that will be used to introduce nutrients to the soil. Biodynamic farming is a lot of work but it pays off in vibrant fruit and wines that age beautifully.

The lineup we tasted included lovely Chardonnay and several vineyard-designate Pinot Noirs from 2014. But as usual the wine I gravitate towards has some bottle age on it.

Fruity on the front palate, the bright cherry exudes fresh, exuberant charm. But it gathers gravitas at midpalate as a seamless groundswell of cola introduces the long, peppery finish enlivened  by a cool mountain stream undercurrent. The nose has a darker aspect, the scent of an early summer forest before decay sets in. At 7 years past its vintage date the profundity of age is breaking ground. You can smell the hint of a caramel precursor, and the silken mouthfeel leaves the impression of richness without being opulent or lush. Such effortless, aging beauty—if it had not been on the tasting menu I wouldn’t have known to purchase it. Kudos to Littorai for showing their library wines.

Paired with a quesadilla of sautéed mushrooms, caramelized onions,  good cheddar, and an acid-driven green sauce. Superb.

Charming but with some profundity and the call of exuberant nature, Jan Garbarek’s version of Pygmy Lullaby captures the mood.

Score: 93

Alc: 13.7%

Price: $125

Wine Review: Serra Vineyards Syrah Applegate Valley Southern Oregon 2011, 2012

27 Tuesday Jun 2017

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serra vineyardsSandwiched between the acclaimed Willamette Valley to the north and the iconic wine regions of California to the south, Southern Oregon has no place to hide. They’re not the only game in town. They can’t claim to be outside the wine-world loop doing their own thing.  Comparisons with their better-known neighbors are inevitable. Time will tell if they’re up to the task and I’ll have more to say about their potential when I have poked around a bit more. But my first impressions are enthusiastically positive. Warmer than Willamette Valley but cooler than much of California, with lots of sunshine and stunning diurnal temperature shifts, Southern Oregon is a sweet spot—almost anything will ripen but the growing season is too short for over-the-top ripeness and the cool nights keep acid levels high. So think new world/old world hybridity—bold fruit, but lots of earth and freshness.

Our visits to wine regions succeed when we find a person who can unlock the region for us and in Southern Oregon that person was Liz Wan, assistant winemaker at Serra Vineyards in the Applegate subregion of the Rogue Valley. A bundle of energy and a jet stream of information about Southern Oregon wines, she not only provided us with our itinerary but poured some lovely wines created by owner/winemaker Scott Fernandes with Liz’s able assistance. If I understand their working relationship, Liz supplies the numbers and Scott the judgment and intuition. At any rate, their wines are a delicious representation of Southern Oregon viticulture.

Their award winning Cabernet Sauvignon was great but I found the Syrahs intriguing because, well, I always find Syrah intriguing.

Despite warm summer temperatures and very little summer rainfall, there is substantial vintage variation here and so I was fascinated by this comparison between the warm, almost perfect conditions of 2012 and the cool, troublesome 2011 vintage. In the end, it was hard to pick a favorite.

Syrah 2012

Dripping with ripe, blackberry, mocha, and as it opens up, earthy aromas of wet leaves and white pepper, this is a wine with depth and vitality.

Inky in the glass, the palate is rich and full bodied with dark roast coffee notes emerging. As the mouth fills with darkness the experience is enlivened by an harmonic convergence of incisive acidity and refined tannins so seamless it’s hard to distinguish the textural layers.  This textural integration is the heart of this wine. The medium length finish remains flavorful to the end. Not too drying, and never grippy, it’s both sumptuous and bristling.

Score: 91

Price: N/A

Alc: 15%

Syrah 2011

Lighter in hue, this is  fresh and bright with red berries and pomegranate dominating, cossetted by enticing mint and chocolate. Lifted and elegant, but with tension and energy, the cracklin’ minerality on the finish gives the wine a nervy, taut aspect. This is more sinewy than the majestic 2012.

Both wines have great acidity and tannins that provide structure without being too assertive.

Score: 90

Price: $55

Alc: 13.5%

When thinking about music pairings, the bright acidity and minerality puts me in mind of jangly electric guitars. Where do you find profundity and jangly electric guitars? Well U2 of course.

For the 2012 Pride (in the name of love) has that same balance of piercing top notes and rich, firm foundation

For the 2011, Magnificent has a pretty, upliftiing yet taut, percussive drive that captures the mood of this wine.

Reviews based on industry samples

Sonoma Pilgrimage

26 Monday Jun 2017

Posted by in Restaurant Reviews, Travel, Wine Reviews

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somoma-saladA quick stop in Sonoma before heading to Southern Oregon was part pilgrimage and part voyage of discovery.

The pilgrimage was to the place that launched the food revolution on the left coast—Alice Water’s Chez Panisse, still going strong in the same location not far from the UC Berkeley campus. In the 1960’s, Waters was ensconced in the hippie/free speech culture at UC Berkeley when a sojourn in France convinced her that the revolution must be catered. Upon her return, despite the fact she had no culinary training or experience, she opened Chez Panisse in 1971, dedicated to serving exquisitely prepared food using only fresh, local ingredients, a radical, new idea at least in the U.S.

Chez Panisse played a large role in my book American Foodie helping to develop themes regarding the importance of culinary pleasure in one’s life. But I had never had the chance to eat there until recently. Lunch in the upstairs café was the only option; no dinner reservations were available until next month. Iconic restaurants often have trouble maintaining their quality and cachet since people interested in food are notoriously fickle and perpetually seek out what’s new. But I’m happy to report that Chez Panisse is still at the top if its game. This salad of cucumber, Tokyo turnips, and radishes à la crème with watercress pictured above was as delicious as it is pretty, and the grilled lamb chops and braised shank dressed with yoghurt and mint sauce, accompanied by crisp, smashed then fried potatoes and greens, was the epitome of the up-dated, French country cooking for which Chez Panisse is known.

A second icon checked off my list was Littorai Wines. Biodynamic winemaking is still controversial but it is increasingly becoming accepted by the wine culture mainstream as a disciplined approach to vineyard management that forces winemakers and viticulturists to pay close attention to the ecology of their vineyards. Ted Lemon, owner and winemaker, was a pioneer of biodynamic winemaking long before it was cool. Having worked in France for many years, he had long noticed the failure of conventional farming to solve problems in the vineyard. Soon after starting Littorai in 1993 he gradually began to introduce biodynamic principles into his vineyard practice replacing fertilizers with compost and controlling pests with the strategic use of herbal teas and an army of chickens, ducks, goats and other animals that contribute to ecological balance. somoma-littoraiBiodynamics, as originally developed by Rudolph Steiner in the 1920’s, involved a lot of questionable metaphysical beliefs such as making harvest decisions based on the phases of the moon. Ted takes a bemused attitude toward most of that and bases harvest decisions on his judgment about when the grapes are ready. For him biodynamics is practical—healthy soils create healthy vines which produce better grapes for winemaking while preserving the soil for the future.

A tour of Littorai is one of the better tours you’ll find in the Napa/Sonoma area. The Littorai property is a fascinating study in biodiversity and the staff at Littorai do an excellent job of explaining how all the elements fit together to create healthy vines. We were fortunate to be able to chat with Ted for a considerable time about his life in the wine world and his fascinating approach to viticulture. The flora and fauna on this property are interesting in themselves independently of their contribution to wine quality. But does all of this lead to better wines? It’s hard to say. But his Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs sourced from Sonoma and Anderson Valley are fresh and elegant with significant tannic structure and an electric minerality that sets them apart from more typical Sonoma Coast fruit.

After all this history, it was time to seek innovation. I wanted to focus on wines made under the banner of “natural” which is the source of a lot of the energy and novelty in the wine world today. Unsurprisingly, Berkeley supplied the venue. Donkey and Goat is a small urban winery in downtown Berkeley sourcing grapes from the Sierra Foothills, Napa, and Mendocino with a yearly case production of about 6000. Their approach to winemaking is low intervention, meaning unfined and unfiltered, using only native yeasts and no additives or additional enzymes in the winemaking process, allowing fermentations to take their own course when possible.  But they aren’t dogmatic about it. They use minimal sulfur when needed and will intervene if a ferment is going south. After all there is no point in wasting a good barrel of wine just to make a point. Their approach to winemaking is evidence that the natural wine movement is growing up, becoming more pragmatic and less ideological. Of course that means “natural wines” are not much different from traditional, artisanal wines which have long been made without much intervention from winemaking technology at least in good vintages.

What  is different about these winemakers flying the “natural” banner is that they aren’t afraid to be unconventional. And winemaker Jared Brandt is no exception. His Twinkle bottling is a light Mourvedre that hovers uncertainly between a Rosé and a California GSM, airy and bright but with a tannic foundation that provides textural contrast and structural integrity. And his “orange wine” called Stone Crusher (see my review here) is an hedonic assault on the senses, one of the most distinctive wines I have sampled .  The 2013 Syrah (Fernaughty Vineyard), (2015) Perli Vineyard Chardonnay, and a white Rhone blend called Eliza all had electric acidity and layered textures, taut, complex, and savory.

Thanks to a recommendation from Donkey and Goat’s tasting room manager, we headed up 101 to pay a visit to Healdsburg’s Idlewild Wines.  Like Donkey and Goat, they profess commitment to low intervention winemaking. But what is extraordinary is their commitment to making wine, not only from Italian varietals, but exclusively from varietals found in Piemonte. Arneis, Cortese, Dolcetto, Barbera,  and Nebbiolo, sourced from mature vines from a vineyard in the hills of central Mendocino Valley,  all were delicious and varietally correct albeit in a somewhat riper style than you would find in Italy. The Barbera was especially dense and fruit-forward; the Arneis surprisingly full bodied and luscious. But for sheer originality, Idlewild’s version of Cortese wins the prize. 25% of the grapes were fermented on the skins like a red wine and then left to macerate after fermentation producing a wine of extraordinary body and texture. But alas my heart was won by the Nebbiolo, because I’m always a sucker for Nebbiolo. Some very carefully handling of the grapes has produced a seductive, accessible wine with all the standard characteristics–rose, fennel, dried cherries, and tar–but without the mouth ripping tannins that require 15 years of bottle age to calm down.

With temperatures soaring alas we had to abandon wine tasting in the valley and escape to Bodega Bay in search of cool temperatures, oysters and crab, happily consumed under this jealous eye.

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