Another iteration in Trader Joe’s Grand Reserve line up of upper tier budget wines. This one is fine but it’s mood is downbeat.

Ripe dark fruit, dried fig, hints of warm spices and dusty earth aromas provide complexity, but there isn’t much intensity or life. Vanilla emerges with more air. It’s very laid back. At least there are no green, vegetal notes.

On the palate it’s not broad and dimensional enough to be lush but it is smooth with a layer of velvet fruit over supportive, unobtrusive tannins and a short finish exposing oak flavors. Very low acidity contributes to the impression of  lethargy. This is an easy drinker with plenty of flavor but a bit sullen and morose.

Highly recommended for those suicidal moments.

Score: 86

Price: $12

Alc: 14.5%

Bat For Lashes’ The Big Sleep has a similar mood.

Chile’s 5th largest producer makes some iconic wines at the premium level. This Cab is their entry level, supermarket wine.

Ripe red fruit, dense and a bit stewed, with some mushroom, green stemmy notes and and iron filings on the nose. It won’t please everyone but if you like odd earth notes and a striking, unusual aroma profile you might find this intriguing. I did.

But the palate let’s you down. It opens juicy and fresh but lacks concentration in the mid palate showing tart cherry and pepper, very dry with a steely, mineral core,  medium body with significant apparent acidity and grainy tannins. The acidity and tannins combine for a long, but clunky finish that turns quite bitter as it progresses.

The wine will effectively wash down a burger  and deserves credit for being distinctive but as a sipper its appeal is limited by the unpleasant finish.

The blend included 15% Merlot, and 45% of the wine was aged in French oak for 8 months.

Score: 85

Price: $10

Alc: 13.5%

This wine is a bit feral and bitter like the Clash classic, Clampdown

Is it ever worth it to buy cheap wine—the under $6 stuff? Do the savings warrant having to endure several glasses of what is often barely drinkable? It depends on your budget of course but who doesn’t want to save a few bucks? And occasionally, very occasionally you find something at least pleasant.

So what about this staple of the bottom shelf, Rex Goliath. It is owned by the wine goliath, Constellation Brands, the largest wine producer in the world.

It is OK. Black Cherry and burnt toast, share aroma space with green bell pepper typical of inexpensive Cabernet Sauvignon. A little earthiness is nice. Not interesting but not awful.

On the palate, it’s juicy upfront but the flavor fades rapidly passing through a cocoa-inflected phase before stumbling to the finish, which tastes like sour cola. Medium body and without trying to be too lush, it has a little sweetness but the acidity is quite high preventing the wine from being cloying,. The tannins are soft and, as is typical of cheap wine, you just have to ignore the finish. It’s not bad; it managed to stay out of my drain. If you’re inclined to raid the bottom shelf you can do worse.

This wine reminds me of a line in R.E.M’s the One I Love—”A simple prop to occupy my time.”

Score: 82

Price: $5

Alc: 13%

I often complain about cheap wine because it is predictable. But even predictable wines can be fine and satisfying in the right context. This one isn’t. There is no reason for this wine to exist except bad taste. It’s green, green, green, tart and thin. Out of the bottle the nose has the characteristic bell pepper aroma that under-ripe Cabernet Sauvignon tends to show.  On the second day, some of that greenness blows off and you can smell the oak chips and a little fruit, but nothing enticing here.

The palate is hard and woody, with some diluted black fruit making a brief appearance. The finish is tart and mercifully short.

PKNT stands for Passion, Knowledge, Nature, and Time. All worth celebrating, but not with this wine.

Here is some sadcore to lift the spirit, Low’s “No Comprende”.

Score: 78

Price: $9

Alc: 13.5%