There is a debate among wine critics about whether we should write negative reviews. Most say they don’t have time to waste on bad wine. But film, art, and music critics write negative reviews and so do consumer guides. Negative reviews don’t take that much time to write—how many minutes does it take to write “it sucks”? And why are wines above criticism?

I was enthusiastic about this wine because I loved their Grüner Veltliner,  which I reviewed here. But we all know the fact a winery does one thing well is no indication that their whole lineup will impress. I know nothing and can find out very little about this winery. I suspect they buy grapes on the open market; and the fact that Argentinean Malbec has been in demand as the new “hot” grape for a few years now may mean only inferior grapes are available at a good price. That’s just speculation but it would explain this mediocre wine.

Simple black cherry on the nose with some earth notes that provoke mild interest. But the palate is meager and watery with muddy flavors and sour acidity that enters the picture early and monopolizes the finish. At least it is very dry. No standard signs of a flaw; just cheap grapes. Drinkable but you can do much better for less money. But if you like the label, well then…

Score: 81

Price: $10 (1 liter bottle)

Alc: 13%

I’ve been on a cheap Malbec kick lately.

This one’s from Bronco wines. In style it contrasts sharply with the Bodega De Elena I reviewed last week.

Light ruby in color with just a hint of the purple hue typical of Malbecs. Vegetal notes rule the subdued nose with generic berry aromas perceptible beneath the surface. A hint of earth gives the nose what interest it has. Bright, fresh fruit on a light to medium body but it lacks the weight and roundness typical of Malbecs. The finish is short and watery, with tannins barely discernible. This is a more refreshing, playful wine that the Bodega De Elena but there is not a lot of flavor. Simple and inoffensive but nothing praiseworthy. Don’t pay more than $7.

Score: 81

Alcohol: 13.5%

Price: $6-$10.

You wouldn’t know it from the label, which refers lovingly to the “home at the foot of the Andes” , but this wine is from E.J. Gallo.

The nose and palate are intense for a cheap wine, black cherry and generic berry aromas and raisins dominate but are slightly stewed, a whiff of alcohol and green vegetal notes mar the nose but it is pleasant enough. Some subtle woodiness suggests oak chips deftly applied.

The palate flavors turn darker but still have the stewed character. This is a medium body wine with just enough acidity to support the fruit so the wine remains refreshing. Chocolate shows on the medium length finish with very soft tannins.

I didn’t enjoy the stewed aromas but the intensity and full flavor make this a good bargain, especially if you’re serving steak.

Score: 83

Alcohol: 13.5%

Price: Average price is $8 but I often see it for $6