Xinomavro, the signature red grape from Macedonia, has a reputation for aging well. This bottling from the large co-operative Vaeni has vibrant fresh aromas eight years after vintage with good fruit persistence and still robust tannins. Excellent quality for the price.
Aromas of red raspberry, rose, and orange zest are covered in a blanket of allspice, with a bit of old shoe leather just beginning to emerge to show the wine’s age.
In the mouth, it’s light bodied with delicate, dried fruit notes. Spare and elegant with a foundation of sandy tannins and firm acidity which never gets too incisive, the wine manages to be gentle without being soft. The medium length finish of tart cranberry performs a lithe, slow motion fade, with a layer of stony minerality taking over.
The earthy delicacy is charming, the refined but wistful tenderness a good companion for Beck’s Lost Cause.
Notes: Aged 24 months in used barrique and 24 months in bottle before release. Cultured yeast, 2 months of lees stirring
Score: 91
Price: $18
Alc: 13%