This blend of Touriga Nacional, Alfrocheiro, and Jaen from the Dão region of Portugal is ample but edgy. There is softness in the underbelly but you can’t wallow in it. The restless top notes must have their say like that strident twit who must always get in the last word.
Aromas of blackberry, smoked meat, vanilla, and freshly turned soil, and even a hint of toast set a dark, tempestuous mood.
In the mouth, it’s full bodied and round up front, resting briefly on that supple texture, but then it flattens out and becomes broad as the firm but fine grained tannins emerge and begin to squeeze the fruit expression. Meanwhile, hard, high-toned acidity is quite aggressive and rapidly becomes the focus on a finish in which the elements seem to draw apart and occupy their own domains.
This wine is uneasy. Dark and anguished, its a cynic suppressing hints of comfort with acerbic syllables on the tongue. The dark tone, gentle substructure and strident voice resonated with The Devil Wears Prada’s Please Say No.
Notes: A collaboration of three winemakers– Jorge Moreira, Francisco Olazabal and Jorge Serôdio Borges. Vineyards are located in the Serra d’Estrela district of eastern Dão, with elevation of about 1600 ft. Aged for 12 months in oak, 30% new.