Muscadet is always angular and lean, but I look for a seam of limpid, understated flesh to counter the searing acidity. This one has a bit of that quality.
A simple nose of lime, jalapeno, and flint, in the mouth the wine is dry and crisp, with a long, mineral-infused finish that join citrus and jalapeno with bitter herbs. The shy layer of transparent flesh has good length, maintaining its weight and shape which keeps in check Muscadet’s tendency to slash like a razor.
So it’s a wine with an integrated, binary personality—blunt and edgy but with a poised, stylish quality that emerges if you look for it. That Dog’s “Just the Way” captures its temperament.
Notes: Domaine des Herbauges has been in operation since 1864. This wine is sourced from 25-45 year old vines growing on schist, and spends 14-18 months on the lees.