Produced by the ubiquitous and legendary Maison Joseph Drouhin, with grapes sourced from Chorey, a small appellation near Beaune just down the hill from Corton, this shows the classic aromas of black cherry, rose, warm baking spice, and a faint scent of mushroom.
With a narrow but focused layer of juice and a crisp, tart, citrus-like top layer, it’s light bodied but more diligent than delicate. Silky and supple at opening, the wine acquires some oomph as it moves through a gravelly phase to the finish supported by very fine, taut, gently forceful tannins.
There is good expansion at midpalate, as the acidity becomes more prominent, but the supple fruit layer keeps the wine anchored until the tannins show up. It’s not particularly lively but the the textural changes hold your attention and give you a shiver or two.
Cheerful and bright but earnest and composed, with understated grace, and nicely complimented by the lovely, steadfastness of Joni Mitchell’s “If.”
Technical Notes: Gentle extraction with one punch down per day for about 10 days and then one pump over per day.12-15 months on French oak, 10% new.