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sunIf you prefer a horseback ride through rugged terrain to the freeway, this wine is for you. From Karditsa in Central Greece, this blend of 50% Limniona and 50% Xinomavro is as rustic as a sheepfold.

The nose is simple—floral-accented cherry notes, forest floor hiding a hint of cider. The textured mouthfeel is anything but simple. From powdery, to dusty, to grainy, like a calloused hand stroking  steel wool.

The stony launch acquires a seam of satisfying midpalate juiciness, but that is ultimately squelched like a tired promise as the spare but firm tannins ripple tensely on the granular, herbal finish.

This wine is all about texture with a unique evolution in the underbelly. Very distinctive. Cold, acerbic, gritty, it comes alive with some very hard country like the Drive By Truckers “Where the Devil Don’t Stay”.

Technical Notes: Organic grapes, 30 days of skin contact, native yeasts, and aged for 9 months in old and new oak.

Score: 90

Price: $27 (find the wine here)

Alc: 13%