trail estateAn innovative small batch winery in Prince Edward County, Ontario, winemaker MacKenzie Brisbois makes delicious, skin ferment whites, an intriguing Pet Nat, and excellent Cabernet Franc using minimal sulfur and native yeasts. But the Chardonnays were show stoppers.

This is a wild wine, intense, focused, and distinctive with scintillating aromatics of lemon with vanilla hints, upstaged by a saline, ocean breeze, coastal flats expression. Perfectly poised between familiar and eccentric.

Mandarin orange emerges on the palate which opens with great intensity, settles into a soft, fresh, slender midsection then soars on the finish with an amplified crescendo of citrus and stone, until it clamps down hard for a compressed, angular finale.

Very long, with great rhythm and very deft use of oak, the anything but Chardonnay crowd never tasted this.

Feral, quirky, and fervently trippy, strap on the headphones and dial up Bjork’s Human Behavior for this wine’s sibling.

Technical Notes: Partially fermented in oak, all French, 22% new. Unfined, unfiltered, and minimal sulphur at bottling.

Score: 92

Price: $35

Alc: 11.7%