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30 bench rieslingAlthough 30 Bench makes several red, white, and sparkling wines, it’s their Riesling that shines. Winemaker Emma Garner produces several, small-lot bottlings sourced from various locations in their estate vineyards, each a focused study in terroir. This off-dry wine from their Triangle Vineyard was fermented in stainless steel and neutral oak using native yeasts and then briefly aged in stainless steel before bottling.

If you think wines with a bit of sweetness are tame and cloying this will disabuse you of that. This wine rips.

Petrol nicely cossetted within sensual green apple, pear, and honey all enveloped in an alluring tangerine halo yields a complex, sophisticated nose.

In the mouth it greets you with a a round, full, mouthful of sweetness before piercing acidity clamps down to an intense core of focused minerality transitioning to a long, dry, chalky finish. It’s vibrant with lots of bouncing around from fruit to tart to mineral with angular top notes always insisting on their privilege.  From its soft, generous greeting it bites and gnarls adding grapefruit and bitter pith notes at terminus.

Anxious, kinetic, feverishly rebelling against its pretty face, surely a cheated heart lies behind it. Pairs with Maps by the Yeah, Yeah, Yeah’s

Technical notes: 19.3 grams per liter of residual sugar.

Score: 92

Price: $30

Alc: 10.6%