This blend of Touriga Nacional, Syrah, Tinta Roriz, and Alicante Bouschet lives up to its name.

colassalUnusually concentrated for an inexpensive wine, it’s dense, but not too heavy, with a rich, full entre of sweet blackberry, almost soft, that rushes to a slashing, mineral midpalate with cut, and a long, puckering, slightly grippy finish as bitter as a scorned lover. Thankfully there’s a core of juicy fruit persisting through the abrupt transition. But all the theatrics are worth it. They are why this wine satisfies.

The nose of dark plum, smoke, and tar against a faint vanilla background hints at the muscular structure on the palate.

Volatile and reckless, its like a quiet thick night that falters then flares, this wine lies to you like Promises in the Dark.

Technical Notes: The largest producer of Lisbon regional wines, Casa Santos Lima exports 90% of their production. Aged for 8 month in French and American Oak barrels.

Score: 90

Alc: 14%

Price: $13 but Costco had it for $8