clos du boisClos du Bois helped put Alexander Valley on the wine map in the 1970’s. Today it is a large production winery, part of Constellation’s stable. This entry-level Chardonnay has a bright, sunny personality but lacks distinction, getting the job done but without panache.

A nose of butter, pear and pineapple with obvious oak suggests a very traditional California supermarket Chardonnay. In the mouth it’s creamy upfront with lemon hints but turns watery at midpalate and acquires some bitterness on the finish although there is a salty note that pleases. The acidity is fresh and bracing ; the mineral layer on the mid-palate gives the wine some interest and it feels light on the palate but the finish is disjoint. It shows sweet hints up front but finishes dry. A bit spare, certainly no blockbuster but will work nicely with scallops basted in brown butter.

A throwback deserves a throwback. Seals and Crofts “Summer Breeze” pulls the personality of this wine together.

Score: 85

Price: $11 Widely available

Alc: 13.5%