This week we have the third place finisher in the head-to-head assessment of supermarket Cabernet—the Rex Goliath from Constellation Brands. It finished just barely ahead of last week’s reviewed wine, Barefoot Cabernet, on the strength of the healthy shot of acidity that keeps some refreshment in the finish.
A whiff of a plastic, chemical note mars the simple black cherry and earth aromas. The palate is fruity but flat and dull up front. Chocolate and cola at the back of the midpalate sitting on a ripple of acidity give the wine some life carrying through the short but pleasant finish. Tannins are very soft. A touch of sweetness but not too cloying, the balance assisted by that tart note that creeps in to remind you that this is wine, not grape juice.
Another decent but unremarkable wine, it isn’t big and juicy but also avoids excessive sweetness. If you’re not allergic to a mildly tart finish you might find this refreshing.
The last time I checked in with this wine they were sourcing grapes from Chile. These grapes are at least 75% American. It’s basically the same flavor profile but slightly less oaky than in the past.
Should you be curious, Rex Goliath takes its name and label art from a late 19th Century circus act that featured an alleged 47-pound rooster . “HRM” in the brand’s name stands for “His Royal Majesty.”
Since I don’t understand marketing, I can’t explain it either but I guess you can’t argue with success.
This needs an up-tempo quirky vibe, electro-pop, high on the silly scale, song to amp up the juice: