A mere trifle, ignored by the serious, grandma’s drink, a favorite among the hordes of sun-worshiping philistines who need something sweet and watery to wash down a seaside lunch—rosé has a bad rap. Some of it is deserved. Buy a California rosé from the supermarket and trifle is all you will get. But the best, say from the Tavel region of France, are worth serious attention.
This rosé from Mexico’s Guadalupe Valley is anything but trifling. A blend of seven varieties including Mourvedre, Barbera, Tempranillo, Cinsault, Moscatel, Sauvignon Blanc, and Syrah. This very dry, flavorful wine has pretensions.
There is enough activity on the nose to please dedicated aroma detectives. The salted plum notes, characteristic of Guadalupe Valley wines, dominate, supported by ripe strawberry and tea and set off by subtle green, leafy aromas. The strawberry jam on the nervy palate is infused with angular, bitter herbal flavors that carry through the medium length finish.
Light to medium body like most rosés, it nevertheless has the intensity of flavor you expect from more celebrated styles. This is no salad wine; the prickly mouthfeel and bitterness on the finish needs a little fat as an accompaniment, some mild cheese, even chicken or pork with a savory sauce would pair well.
This wine wins on originality; you will find no rosé like it. Only 6600 bottles are produced. You may have to visit the winery to get it. But that is not a bad thing. The winery is a gorgeous bed and breakfast.
Alcohol: 11.1%
Wine Score: 87/100
Price: $20