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Tag Archives: Texas Wine

Wine Review: Locations TX 6, Texas Red Wine NV

13 Tuesday Feb 2018

Posted by Dwight Furrow in Wine Reviews

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Red blends, Texas Wine

locationsWine should not be about fruit alone. Some winemakers go fruit crazy, often ignoring all the other aromas that can grab our attention and make us wonder how grapes can do that. So I immediately fell in love with this wine because of the distinctive aroma.

TX 6 is made by Dave Phinney, founder of Orrin Swift Winery and creator of “The Prisoner”, one of the best known wine brands in the U.S. Phinney’s recent project, Locations, is built around the idea of buying fruit from the best vineyard locations in a particular region and blending wines that represent the region’s distinctive character. For TX 6, Phinney has partnered with Kim McPherson of the legendary McPherson Cellars in Lubbock, Texas to make this blend of Grenache, Mourvedre, Syrah, Carignan and a small quantity of Bordeaux varietals.

If you’re surprised to see a world class winemaker working with Texas fruit, don’t be. I recently returned from three weeks of tasting in Texas, and the region has enormous potential that has matured enough for the rest of the world to take note.

On this intriguing, distinctive nose, a meaty, salami-like aroma plays well with herbal and black pepper notes in support of red plum. The palate is juicy and round right from the git go with surging acidity at midpalate giving the wine lift. Sleek tannins emerge slowly but firm up nicely lengthening the finish that shows good fruit power throughout. From plush beginnings the wine develops backbone and verve yet never loses its sweet disposition. It sees only neutral oak and is untainted by overt wood. A well crafted wine and and a good value.

Irresistibly charming but insouciant and roguish, it has the same beguiling quirkiness as Lily Allen’s Not Big

Score: 90

Price: $24.99 (Purchase Here)

Alc: 14.2%

Review based on an industry sample.

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Texas Wine: On the Cusp of Greatness?

03 Wednesday Jan 2018

Posted by Dwight Furrow in Travel, Wine Culture

≈ 4 Comments

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High Plains Wineries, Hill Country Wineries, Texas Wine, Texhoma AVA

tractor

Farmhouse Vineyards, High Plains Texas

Among all the U.S. wine regions we have visited, which includes most of the country by now, Texas is closest to the West Coast in overall wine quality. The High Plains near Lubbock, where most of the Texas fruit is grown, boasts fertile, sandy loam soils that drain well, hot summer days and cool nights due to their elevation that encourage both ripeness and good acidity, and generations of farmers who understand row crops but need a more profitable product than their traditional cotton crop. As prices for commodity crops like cotton stagnate and a declining aquifer makes the future of thirsty cotton less attractive, many farmers in the High Plains are converting their cotton fields to grape vines. Add to that a large population increasingly interested in local wine and an attractive, vacation destination in Hill Country just west of Austin and you’ve got all the ingredients for a successful wine region. All of these virtues are attracting talented winemakers trained in Europe or California seeking the expansive opportunities of an emerging wine region.

The pretty face of Texas wine is Hill Country AVA. It is the second largest AVA in the country in terms of territory and according to some measures the fasting growing as a tourist destination.  Blessed with rolling hills, picturesque ranchlands, and the charming town of Fredericksburg teeming with restaurants and German- themed shops representing the heritage of the early settlers here, these attractions support a very accessible wine trail, all just a short drive from the cosmopolitan city of Austin. It’s no mystery why the area is growing as a destination. There are now over 52 wineries in the AVA and the number grows each year. However, what you won’t find in Hill Country is lots of grapes. Most of the wineries here grow some grapes on estate vineyards but the real engine of Texas wineries is the High Plains about an 7 hour drive northwest of Austin near the New Mexico border. About 80% of the Texas grapes used to make wine in Hill country come from the High Plains according to January Wiese, Executive Director of the Texas Hill Country Wineries association. Wiese reported that acreage under vine in Hill Country is growing. “We had something like 202 acres 4 years ago. That’s grown to around 850 acres.” Yet, she explained, Hill Country features high land prices, ranchers with large tracts of land who prefer cattle to vineyards, and a more humid climate exacerbating disease pressure. Thus, Hill Country is likely to remain a minor player in terms of grape tonnage compared to the High Plains which now has about 3500 acres under vine .

There are limitations to this arrangement. The High Plains are flat and the weather quite uniform throughout the region. Thus, there are few microclimates to produce individual expressions of terroir although soil mixtures are diverse helping to maintain some differentiation among vineyards. There are a few wineries near Lubbock but, although a thriving city, it’s well off the tourist track. Thus, the relationship between Hill Country and the High Plains is likely a permanent feature of the Texas wine industry.

Therein lies one of the real challenges that Hill Country wineries face. Most winemakers, at least those who care about quality, like to walk their vineyards and get to know their vines. Especially as harvest approaches they need to taste grapes and chew seeds everyday, with one eye on the weather, to plan their harvest schedule. That’s tough to do when you’re almost 400 miles away. Drone images and Google Docs for reporting stats help but there is nothing like the personal touch when it comes to grape quality. Add to that the need to find enough clean trucks with chillers to get the fruit to the winery in Hill Country during the deluge at harvest, and the problems associated with geographical distance have a direct impact on wine quality. The solution is more tank farms and crush facilities on the High Plains all of which are in the works according to people in the region. What is likely to take some time and persuasion is developing a culture committed to quality. Those farmers who have grown commodity crops for generations have a tough time getting their heads around the idea of dropping fruit to get lower yields, especially if they’re paid by the ton.  The folks in Hill Country claim it’s hard to get enough quality fruit from the High Plains; the folks in the High Plains think there’s plenty of grapes if you do your research. So, you see, there can be some tension there although it all seems to be working out in the end. Because the wine is pretty damn good.

Most varietals will ripen on the High Plains although there is a good deal of controversy over the value of some popular grapes. Late season cold spells and rain can make ripening Cabernet Sauvignon a dicey proposition, but in good vintages the quality is quite high. Some folks say it’s too hot for cool-climate-loving Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc but some wineries do a nice job with both. Many people say Texas can’t grow Pinot Noir but one of the best wines we tasted in Texas was a Pinot Noir (from Pheasant Ridge winery in Lubbock). Varieties that bud early, such as Chardonnay, are threatened by late spring frost. Frost damage will also limit the age of vines so you will seldom see really old vines here. Hail throughout the growing season is always a threat and, as Katy Jane Seaton, Executive Director of the High Plains Winegrowers Association told me, “we have every disease and pest known to mankind here”. Thus, success is not guaranteed and vintage variation can be significant. All of these challenges make Tempranillo a good choice since it ripens earlier than other big reds, produces good yields and uniform clusters that are relatively easy to harvest, and features a thick skin less susceptible to disease. Despite these advantages, the consensus among winemakers and association reps that we spoke with is that there is no reason to specialize. “Texas should take advantage of its diversity” notes Seaton.

The strength of that diversity is evident when you taste through Texas wine. Tempranillo and Viognier may be the most consistently exceptional; the Bordeaux varietals  are excellent in good vintages; other Rhone varietals such as Mourvedre and occasionally Syrah make elegant wines in the right location; Italian varietals, especially Sangiovese and surprisingly Montepulciano are consistently good. Although Texas is hot during the summer, the growing season is limited by frost and rain, and when the weather is too hot the vines shut down slowing down the ripening process. Thus, Texas wines are not massive fruit bombs. The typical style here is ripe but elegant with many bottlings showing considerable delicacy and finesse.

There is a lot of mediocre wine served to tourists in Hill Country, much of it using west coast grapes to meet the high demand. If a label says “For sale in Texas only” that usually means the grapes were purchased out of state and the finished wine cannot be returned for sale in that state labeled with the appellation in which the grapes were grown. In other words, no Napa-labeled wines made in Texas can be sold outside Texas.That doesn’t make the wine bad but it does mean there is pressure on supplies which can sometimes mean quality is compromised. Weather variation from year to year and the constant threat of disease means that consistency from vintage to vintage is difficult to achieve, and in some years (such as 2013) Texas is able to produce very little fruit making it necessary for wineries to import grapes to have a product to sell. As Katy Jane Seaton noted, “to protect yourself from low yields, you have to be able to import”.  Nevertheless, the best wineries, especially those committed to using Texas fruit, are producing excellent wine. With massive acreage suitable for wine grapes in the High Plains, a thriving tourist destination in Hill Country, a large, thirsty urban population, and the capacity for producing quality grapes, there is probably no limit to the potential of Texas as a wine region.

We visited three wine regions in Texas– Hill Country AVA west of Austin, Dallas and the Texoma AVA north of Dallas, and the Texas High Plains AVA. This is far from a comprehensive picture; Texas is a big state and there are wineries throughout. But we tasted through a representative sample focusing almost exclusively on wines made from Texas grapes. It’s worth mentioning that if you’re searching for wine quality, don’t ignore the region North of Dallas. While we didn’t find a lot to love in Dallas/Fort Worth proper, the region about 1 hour north near the Oklahoma border has several wineries producing real quality. And Lubbock is interesting as well—it is after all where the grapes are grown and the wine culture there is sophisticated yet down-to-earth catering for the most part to locals interested in wine.

We visited several top wineries in Hill Country in 2015, which we did not have time to visit on this year’s trip. They include Pedernales, William Christ, Infield, and Last Draw all which belong in any discussion of wine quality in Texas. See our review of these wineries here.

Below are the best wineries we discovered on our 2017 visit:

Hill Country

PerrisosPerissos Vineyards

Perissos may be the only winery in Hill  Country using exclusively estate-grown grapes. Overall these wines were among the best we tasted. They feature a gorgeous Viognier, a rich and satisfying Tempranillo (see my full review here) and an award-winning, lovely, complex Montepulciano. Their Sangiovese is plump yet rustic and earthy, and the semi-sweet Fiore Secco Orange Muscat is explosively aromatic with excellent acidity. A comfortable venue with seated tastings.

Kuhlman Cellars

A relatively new winery having opened in 2014, winemaker Bénédicte Rhyne brings remarkable blending skill to the Hill Country wine trail.  Using a palette of several Rhone varietals supplemented by Sangiovese and Malbec, her red wines are all about texture and elegance. The 2014 Alluvé, dominated by Sangiovese and Carignan, is billed an everyday drinker but is gorgeous. (See my review here). The Barranca (Mourvedre, Tempranillo and Malbec) was soft, refined, yet juicy with a scintillating mineral core. The Kankar, using California Malbec and Petite Sirah, was big and still a bit blustery, a good candidate for some bottle age. On the white side, a lovely Viognier, an award-winning Roussanne deserving of its accolades, and their signature “Calcaria” blend all had the characteristic textured mouthfeel and finesse. Tastings are accompanied by thoughtful food pairings that highlight the wine’s charms.

Spicewood Vineyards

Spicewood is one of the wineries doing a great job with grapes not usually associated with Texas. Their 2016 Sauvignon Blanc blew me away–crisp with great minerality, expressive peach aromas and a long, briny finish. This is one of the best white wines we tasted. Their light, elegant 2014 Mourvedre, a winner of many awards,  had lovely raspberry aromas, a standout as well. As we get into the more structured reds, the 2015 Bordeaux-style blend called Independence, available only in good vintages,  and their estate Tempranillo were both powerful and intense. They also make a semisweet Cabernet Claret with 1% residual sugar to pair with Texas chili.

Ron Yates

Ron Yates, the owner and winemaker at Spicewood, has opened a new winery on the Rte. 290 Wine Trail featuring different wines than are poured at Spicewood. The Sauvignon Blanc here was also quite good but the Albarino was a standout. It featured ripe peach on a lush, medium bodied frame, intense aromatics and a lovely texture. Two 2016 rosés, one from Sangiovese and the other from Cinsault were terrific, crisp and refreshing but with Yates’ trademark textural depth. On the day we visited they also poured a memorable soft, elegant Tempranillo from the 2014 vintage.

calaisCalais Winery

Frenchman Benjamin Calais came to the U.S. to work in the tech industry but the lure of the grape was irresistible.  His wines made from High Plains fruit have a deft, old world touch but with unmistakable new world heft. The spicy, silky white Rhone blend made of mostly Roussanne called Cuvee de la Source was sumptuous and lovely but the focus here is on Bordeaux varietals.  Despite the difficulties of getting Cabernet ripe in cool years, the 2015 Cabs had plenty of fruit power. The Cuvee de l’Exposition Lehay Vineyard was laden with savory spice notes and understated elegance. The bottling from the Newsome Vineyard was rich with cedar and graphite and very firm tannins. Both wines were young but expressive. The 2015 Cuvee d’Elme a Bordeaux-style blend from Newsome Vineyard, was pretty and balanced with an intriguing delicate personality. (See my full review here). Tastings are by appointment only at the winery which from the outside looks like an abandoned shack. But the tastings are in depth and among the most informative in the region, often conducted by Benjamin himself.

Lewis Wines

One of my pet peeves is that wineries often sell wine in their tasting rooms before it’s ready. Not Lewis. In 2017 they were pouring their 2012 and 2013 vintages. This is an expensive proposition for wineries but the consumer is getting a wine with some development. They make several Tempranillos sourced from various vineyards, all full of flavor with big spice notes, glorious minerality and emerging earth notes from the bottle age. Their 2013 Mourvedre was a show stopper—a rich palate with lots of earth and their trademark mineral core. And the 2012 blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Tempranillo was also compelling spending 30 months in second use French and some American barrels. They currently have several Portuguese varieties planted in their estate vineyards which should be ready soon.

Duchman-FamilyDuchman Family Winery

Duchman, located on a charming destination property just outside Austin, is committed to making wine from 100% Texas grapes. They specialize in Italian varietals including compelling Trebbiano and Vermentino bottlings, a light weight Sangiovese, a spicy, flavorful Montepulciano and a structured, powerful Aglianico. The non-vintage Progression is a blend of the Montepulciano and Aglianco. This is a robust wine with rich, deep aromas, pleasing earth and herbaceous notes and a long, rustic finish. Their Grape Growers Blend brings together the Montepulciano, Sangovese, Aglianico with some Syrah for a smooth, medium bodied daily drinker. These wines combine new world ripeness with some of the rusticity we associate with Italian varietals. One of the larger producers in the area at 25,000 cases and widely available in Texas.

Solaro Estate Winery

Located in Dripping Springs just west of Austin, Solaro pours wines made from their Estate grapes as well as fruit from West Coast vineyards and several wines made by the Solaro group in Italy. Their rich assortment of wines include Bordeaux, Rhone, and Italian varietals. We tasted a creamy, unoaked Chardonnay from Washington State fruit, a spicy Montepulciano from estate grapes making creative use of a bit of volatile acidity, and Tempranillo and Malbec from Washington State.

Grape Creek Vineyards

This is a large production winery on an attractive estate and a frequent stop for tourists along the Route 290 wine trail. It’s a destination with a fine-dining restaurant on premises and a large, busy tasting room. They source fruit from their estate vineyards as well as from the High Plains. However, with an annual case production of 55,000 cases mostly sold out of their winery, they must import some fruit which gets blended with fruit from their Texas vineyards. It’s a bit hard to tell from their tasting menu which wines are from Texas but the tasting room staff can help sort things out. Nevertheless the wine here is quite good and worth a stop. Their Cuvee Blanc is a Viognier dominated blend of several varietals. It’s aromatic yet delicate and elegant on the palate, a lovely wine as was the soft, elegant Cabernet Trois, a blend of Cabernet Sauvingnon, Cabernet Franc and Ruby Cabernet. The super-Tuscan style Bellissimo, a blend of Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Merlot was structured with great depth, although the tannins need time to settle down.  Mosaic, a Bordeaux-style blend also impressed with its rich mid-palate.

Texhoma

Brushy Creek Vineyards

Located about 80 miles north of Dallas, charming, rustic Brushy Creek was the first winery in this area since prohibition. Les Constable has been making wine from Texas grapes since 1991, opening his commercial winery in 2000. His tasting menu is full of gems. Brushy Creek is the only Texas winery making wine from the Eastern European white grape Rkatsitelli, worth a stop in itself. (see my full review here) Lovely Carignan and Mourvedre, a light, delicate Sangiovese, a stunning, powerful Tannat, and several delicious Tempranillos in the Reserva and Gran Reserva styles fill out the lineup. And talking to Les is a real education in Texas winemaking.

Arché Vineyard and Winery

Long time grape growers in this region, Howard and Amy Davies started making their own wines in 2007, with winemaking chores now handled by their son Grayson. They advertise “wines as big as the state of Texas” but in fact their wines are elegant, subtle, and polished, overall among the best we tasted in Texas. The Chardonnay, the white blend of Chardonnay and Roussanne, called “True Friends”, and their Roussanne are explosively aromatic, round and full in the mouth, yet crisp and delicate. Ryan’s Red, a Cabernet/Syrah blend is smooth and charming, the Tempranillo tasty, and the gorgeous ostrichSyrah the closest thing you can find to Cote Rotie without travelling to Southern France. (see my full review here) Most of the grapes are estate grown; only the Tempranillo is made from High Plains fruit.

Blue Ostrich Winery and Vineyard

Come for the ostrich; stay for the wine. Yes, they have two ostriches roaming the fenced-in space in back of the winery on property that was formerly an ostrich ranch. But the wine is good as well. A clean, fresh estate Viognier and a spicy, floral estate Tempranillo opened our tasting. Their 2014 “Bruder” Reserve Tempranillo was smooth and velvety, quite impressive, and the 2015 Empty Sea estate blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Tempranillo, and Merlot was flavorful but will benefit from some time in the bottle to soften the tannins. Solid winemaking and a charming place to while away an afternoon.

The High Plains

Pheasant Ridge Winery

Pheasant Ridge has one of the more compelling stories we discovered in Texas. An early grower and advocate for Texas wines, the legendary Bobby Cox lost his winery in the early 1990’s due to financial setbacks but thanks to the efforts of Bingham Family Vineyards who acquired the property via an auction, Mr. Cox is back in the saddle. Some of the wines currently being poured were made by the previous owner. But Les pulled out one of his wines from the early days—a 1993 Pinot Noir that was absolutely stunning. The best wine we tasted in Texas, a wine region where Pinot Noir is only occasionally grown. (See my full review here) 2016 is the first vintage with Bobby back at the helm and his Chenin Blanc from that vintage is excellent. With several wines now in barrel looking ahead to a 2018 release date, this is a winery to watch.

Llano Estacado Winery

This is the oldest commercial winery in the state and now one of the largest, producing about 170,000 cases annually with distribution in several states as well as outside the country. With production that large, most of the grapes are purchased from vineyards around the state and elsewhere. However, the wines distributed to their wine club are from 100% Texas grapes. The tasting options in the tasting room are enormous. We focused on their premium list made from Texas grapes. The Mont Sec Sauvignon Blanc was excellent, one of the best white wines we tasted. The Dry Chenin Blanc and Viognier well-done. The THP Montepulciano was very spicy and rustic. A soft, elegant Malbec and representative Texas Tempranillo prepared the way for two blockbusters. The award winning 2014 Sangiovese/Cabernet blend called Viviano was stunning, beautifully integrated and utterly harmonious. The 2015 1836 (a reference to Texas’ independence from Mexico) is a proprietary blend with a distinctive nose of leather and floral notes, really quite unique. If you stick to the premium tasting menu, there is excellent quality here.

McPherson Cellars

An urban winery in downtown Lubbock, McPherson Cellars is a monument to Texas wine history. Winemaker Kim McPherson’s father along with Bob Reed from Llano Estacado founded one of the first post-prohibition wineries in Texas in 1976. McPherson Cellars was opened in 2008 to keep that legacy alive. This winery is notable for its affordable approach. We didn’t find any blockbusters here but every wine is well-made and won’t break the bank. The winemaking aims at pure fruit expression, with reds lightly oaked and whites, crisp and refreshing. The 2015 Dry Muscat, the 2015 Vermentino, and the white blend “Les Copains White” were focused and luscious. Each were under $20, all excellent values. The 2015 Cinsault had wonderful fruit quality as did the Les Copains Red Rhone-style blend.

Trilogy Cellars

This is an interesting project. Three long-time grape-growing families in the High Plains, who sell much of their fruit to Hill Country vintners, have banded together to sell wine to enable the local population to “taste what they grow”. The wines are made by Llano Estacado and include: an elegant, minerally Pinot Grigio; a scrumptious, sweet Gewurztraminer; a rustic yet robust  Sangiovese/Merlot/Malbec/Montepulciano blend called Intersection; a beautiful Reserve Malbec with lots of perfume and an elegant evolution on the palate; and the 2015 Relentless, a Merlot/Malbec blend that was quite good. Their comfortable tasting room is in the small town of Levelland. This is a very small production operation, around 1200 cases per year, so they will often be out of specific wines.

Wine Review: Brushy Creek Vineyards Rkatsiteli Texas 2015

26 Tuesday Dec 2017

Posted by Dwight Furrow in Wine Reviews

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Texas Wine, Texoma AVA

brushy creekRecent research has traced winemaking in the Republic of Georgia back to 6000 BCE making it one of the oldest wine-producing regions on earth. Rkatsitelli is the most popular white wine grape in the Republic of Georgia so it very well might be related to the earliest grapes known to humankind. Significant plantings in Russia and Eastern Europe make it one of the most common white varietals in the world. Yet it is seldom grown here in the U.S.  There is some minor acreage planted in the Finger Lakes where Dr. Constantin Frank’s Vinifera Wine Cellars has the best known bottling.  By chance I stumbled upon Brushy Creek Vineyards, a small but excellent winery about 1 hour north of Dallas, who also makes wine from this ancient grape.

The varietal has a reputation for being simple and rustic. Its chief advantages are that it survives cold winters and maintains acidity during hot summers. But Brushy Creek’s version, although true to type, is distinctive and is an argument for this varietal occupying its own niche in the kingdom of white wines. Only slightly less voluptuous than Gewurztraminer or Viognier, it’s notable for its textural density and  complex finish.

Bruised apple, hints of tangerine, quince paste and, with aeration, wet hay have sufficient intensity to give the wine interest on the nose. Dry extract provides layered textures and a pleasing coarseness suggesting there might have been a bit of skin contact in the wine making. It’s quite minerally and crisp with a finish that moves through a bitter phase before closing with refreshing salinity.

Winemaker/owner Les Constable is one of the pioneers of Texas wine having started growing wine grapes in 1991. In addition to Rkatsiteli he makes outstanding Tannat, Mourvedre and several Tempranillos.  For wine lovers in North Texas Brushy Creek is worth a stop

This Rkatsiteli has a gritty, bohemian complexity, acerbic, sardonic and thus well matched with Elvis Costello’s Alison.

Score: 88

Alc: 14.5%

Price: $25 (purchase here)

Wine Review: Kuhlman Cellars Alluvé Red Blend Texas 2014

19 Tuesday Dec 2017

Posted by Dwight Furrow in Wine Reviews

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Red blend, Texas Wine

kuhlman cellarsSome wines matter because of their distinctive aromas or exquisite balance. This one shines because of its emotional resonance.

The initial impression of strawberry jam is cut with tarragon and muted notes of freshly turned earth. With aeration whispers of cinnamon and clove grow louder.

The palate is soft, the modestly concentrated cherry, cedar, and earth notes providing a linear experience until the acidity adds a juicy and high-toned mineral element. Fine-grained tannins drop off quickly on what seems like a short finish.

So the first impression is of a small, elegant wine, hushed and a bit shy, lacking depth but with no rough edges. But a second more careful look reveals a wine with an interesting character.

The wine is like a lazy, mid-afternoon boat ride down a quiet river, languorous, slow-moving, tranquil. Even the aromas are parceled out at a leisurely pace, the transitions between opening, mid-palate and finish rendered seamlessly, bound by a delicate filament of minerality that permeates the journey. It is the very opposite of bombast. And as the tannins fade the finish hangs on by a thread for a long minute until a lovely burst of menthol lights up the finale.

To get the full enjoyment from this wine you have to intuit it’s pace, match its slow pace with relaxed attention and wait for that final burst of joy. Too shy to attract attention you have to seek out its considerable charm.

This blend of Sangiovese (30%)  Carignan (20%), Mourvedre (21%), Tempranillo (16%), Touriga (7%) and Merlot (4%) is another Texas wine that plays against the stereotype of big and brash. It is nevertheless unforgettable.

The 2014 sees 80% new French oak. The blend changes from vintage to vintage but winemaker Bénédicte Rhyne’s old world sensibility is the common thread.

Pair with the spare and languid Gnossiene  #4 by Erik Satie.

Score: 91

Price: $28 (Purchase here)

Alc: 13.7%

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uj3m5KMJ02o

Wine Review: Arché Winery and Vineyard Syrah Montague County 2015

12 Tuesday Dec 2017

Posted by Dwight Furrow in Wine Reviews

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Syrah, Texas Wine

Arche-Syrah-2015Texas’ deserved reputation for big—big steaks, big hats, big territory (and yes sometimes a big head)—is belied by their wines which are often elegant and full of finesse.The parched, hot, gently rolling hills in North Texas near the Oklahoma border might seem an unlikely place to grow quality wine grapes. But this award-winning Arché Syrah made from estate grown grapes is delicious, juicy but with considerable old-world delicacy reminiscent of modern Cote Rotie, including the 5% Viognier in the blend.

Assertive florality, backed up by smoke meats, ripe blackberry with cranberry nuances and rose-inflected cinnamon make a heady aromatic concoction all replicated on the palate. Lively and juicy in the mouth, a glycerin sheen yields a lovely satin-like mouthfeel giving way to a marriage of fine-grained, prickly tannins and brittle, crystalline acidity on the high-toned finish, which features, as it fades, the return of resonant, sweet fruit. Exquisite, subtle use of oak. The fruit really shines.

The wine is uplifting and lyrical but with a bit of fire and irreverence. Coldplay’s Viva La Vida matches the mood.

Score: 92

Price: $34 (Purchase here)

Alc: 14.2%

Wine Review: Perissos Vineyard Tempranillo Texas Hill Country 2015

28 Tuesday Nov 2017

Posted by Dwight Furrow in Wine Reviews

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Tempranillo, Texas Wine

perissosPerissos Vineyards, located in Hill Country northwest of Austin, is one of the few wineries in this region using mostly estate-grown fruit. (Most Texas grapes are grown in the high plains near Lubbock). Dedicated to exhibiting the distinctiveness of Texas fruit, especially from their 16-acre vineyard which, unique in this region, rests on decomposed granite, Perissos has been making award winning wines at this location since 2005. Of the roughly 30 wineries we have visited in Texas, Perissos is among the very best in overall quality and this Tempranillo is a standout.

Abundant aromas of cherry and tobacco mingle with rosemary, forest floor and hints of fennel—there is even a shy touch of charming funk to complete this variegated portrait of fragrances. It’s rich and juicy upfront, and then turns high-toned and edgy as the midpalate announces electric minerality animating the licorice-tinted finish. Soft tannins provide a persistent background presence. Polished and stylish yet lively with soaring kinetic energy, this wine is as irresistible as a pair of well-matched, eager, young lovers.

Higher apparent acidity than most versions of this grape but well balanced with rich fruit, the winemaking shows a deft touch with the oak, thankfully avoiding the curse of woody Tempranillo.

Score: 91

Price: $45

Alc: 13.3%

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Pat Benatar’s Love is a Battlefield has the blend of style and altitude to match this wine.

Wine Review: Inwood Estates “Magdalena” Red Bordeaux-style Blend Texas 2012

17 Tuesday Nov 2015

Posted by Dwight Furrow in Wine Reviews

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Cabernet Sauvignon, Texas Wine

There is time for one more winery visit before we leave Texas Hill Country, and we’ve been underwhelmed so far. I took the advice of some locals and stopped in at Inwood Estates. Finally, we taste a full lineup of quality wines. This blend is an example of what carefully tended, Bordeaux varietals can do in this forbiddingly hot climate with a short growing season. It’s a little more slender than California Cabernet but its unique characteristics make it worthy of some attention.

Dark plum and fig wrapped in subtle cedarwood with rosemary highlights produce a lovely aroma profile. The oak is already well-integrated, seamlessly melding with the fruit.

In the mouth, the wine is succulent and complex with balsamic and mineral notes surging at midpalate and continuing to show on the finish. A medium plus body with a texture more sinewy than lush, the tannins are fine grained and silky with little grip. There is tautness in the mouthfeel with backbone coming from the acidity. What sets this wine apart are the surprising tart flavors as the refreshing, medium-length finish draws to a close. This lifted quality on the finish is unusual in a Cab dominated blend—it’s pushing the limits of acid worship but it works.

A serious yet graceful wine with a vivacious aspect, it will excel as a food wine especially with rosemary-inflected lamb chops.

81% Cabernet Sauvignon blended with Merlot, Malbec, Petit Verdot, and Cabernet France, with 2% Tempranillo. Purchase directly from the winery.

The dark, complex  yet energetic musings of Erik Truffaz’s Mechanic Cosmetic match the aura of this wine.

Score: 92

Price: $50

Alc: 14.4%

Texas Hills Vineyard Kick Butt Cab Estate Texas Hill Country 2012

10 Tuesday Nov 2015

Posted by Dwight Furrow in Wine Reviews

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Cabernet Sauvignon, Texas Wine

kick butt cabI’ve been tasting through Texas Hill Country wines the last two weeks.  Texas Hills Vineyard is a highly-regarded winery among the locals and this particular Cabernet has, over the years, received quite a bit of recognition—some call it iconic. I found it to be representative of the middling quality to be found here.

The nose shows black cherry, then a little dusty earth, and finally settles into a flavor profile with prominent cinnamon and clove highlights. It’s pleasant enough but doesn’t exactly leap out of the glass. The medium body palate is juicy and the acidity refreshing but the wine is linear, lacking impact up front and featuring a short finish with very soft tannins that lack grip. Faint apple cider notes on the finish are unusual. The oak is well-integrated and shows off the fruit but there is little to create interest.

This is an approachable wine that is easy to drink but it lacks the bold fruit, depth, and sturdy tannins that premium Cabernet should have. It is a respectable wine but at $25 I’m underwhelmed. It certainly does not kick butt.

Like most of the wines we’ve tasted here it occupies a comfortable niche serving the robust tourist trade in the hills West of Austin; but it doesn’t stand out when compared to the Cabernet Sauvignon from more established wine regions.

I’m camped down the road from that dusty little town with the big name—all because of this little song from Waylon. A comfortable, middle-of-the-road country tune to go with a comfortable middle-of-the-road country wine.

Score: 86

Price: $25

Alc: 13.8%

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