Inky and deeply concentrated, Carmenere originated in France, a cross between Cabernet Franc and Gros Cabernet. It has largely disappeared from their preferring the warmer, drier climate of Chile where they are committed to this grape.

This wine is caught bobbing between soft and smooth and sharp and unruly. But it all comes together nicely. A highly recommended study in contrasts. Red raspberry and blackberry aromas are animated by a strong dose of jalapeno wrapped in chocolate—a simple but bold nose. That green pepper or wild herbal note is what makes this grape distinctive.

Carmenere is not noted for its acidity. But this wine vibrates with a peppery tang, and a hi-toned mineral seam that draws a contrast with the concentrated, persistent fruit power, rich chocolate and tobacco notes. The initial impression of richness is supplemented by a pointed angularity as the finish unfolds with some bitterness that gives the wine a pleasant but bracing, rustic edge. A dark, burnt wood quality lurks in the background.

Tender and rowdy like Bonnie Raitt Love Sneakin’ up on You.

Technical Notes: 93% Carmenere with a dash of Cabernet France and Cabernet Sauvignon. 13 months in oak. William Fèvre is best known for their Grand Crus vineyards in Chablis but they bought several vineyards in Chile in the early 1990’s.

Score: 90

Price: $22

Alc: 13.9%

I’m on a Carmenere binge. There are worse fetishes aren’t there?

Last week I noted the Apaltagua Carmenere had its characteristic wild herbal notes tamed until the bitter finish reminded me of what I was drinking. This week’s Carmenere, also from Colchagua, is even more thoroughly house-trained. The Chileans really are trying to make this grape presentable.

No feral vegetables and only muted bitter notes on the finish. No wonder for many years the Chileans thought Carmenere was Merlot. This new breed of Carmenere is bringing out the Merlot-like character of the grape.

Black cherry, smoke, and black pepper are prominent aromas on the nose; chocolate completes the flavor profile on the round, shapely, medium body palate. The finish is peppery and longer than is characteristic of Carmenere due to more substantial tannins than is typical.

Montes makes the iconic Purple Angel, a high end ($60) Carmenere that takes the comparison with new world Merlot even further, with a big body and ample cigar box fumes due to the 18 months in new French oak. The Limited Selection, with only 70% of the juice 6 months in French Oak, lacks the depth and dimension of the Purple Angel but at $16 still has a touch of elegance and nuance. A good bargain.

But I am missing that never-know-what-you-will-get quality of traditional Carmenere.

Score: 88

Price: $16

The great 19h Century agnostic Robert Green Ingersoll said “courage without conscience is a wild beast.”

This wine appears to be acquiring a conscience because the wildness has been tamed and what is left is almost respectable–a wine with aspirations.

Carmenere is an odd grape. A former Bordeaux varietal although today seldom grown in France, it has found a home in Chile where the warm, dry growing season helps the vines to consistently flower and therefore produce reliable yields. Although Chile produces more Cabernet than Carmenere the latter has become a kind of signature grape for them.

When the grapes are harvested too early, Carmenere has an unpleasant green pepper flavor. When harvested on time the wine still exhibits a wild herbaceous note that has you thinking of David Lynch films or Keith Moon in his prime. But this Envero from old vines grown in Apalta is smooth and sophisticated (at least as sophisticated as this grape gets.)

On the nose, red fruits settle nicely into a vanilla bath. Well-tamed green olive notes round out the intriguing nose. On the medium body palate, the fruit becomes dark and foreboding while still wrapped in vanilla. As you savor the mid-palate, the herbaceous quality becomes quite pronounced and then the bitterness hits and your remember this is Carmenere—it was going to take you on a wild ride at some point. If you like the way a mouthful of Kale finishes, this is your wine. Actually, I’m exaggerating a bit. The wine is overall a pleasant experience. Good acidity and the characteristic soft tannins keep this wine in balance. The flavors are deep and mouth-filling, and with a nice, fatty burger to absorb some of the bitterness on the finish this will satisfy.

You owe it to yourself to take a walk on the wild side and this is one of the better Carmeneres available. A good bargain. 14% Alc.

Score: 87

Price: $15