Before Meininger’s International stopped publishing last week, Robert Joseph, the Devil’s Advocate, published a piece there in which he implored people who sell wine to
Food Writing and Messy Materiality
There is a particular incantatory tone that haunts much of contemporary food writing—a metaphysical streak dressed in lyrical finery. You know the type. It speaks
Why Appellations Matter—but Maybe Not So Much
There’s a reason why a wine lover can recall the shape of a bottle or the slope of a vineyard long before they can conjure
The Dilemma of Deliciousness: When Taste Outruns Meaning
There’s a peculiar kind of failure that befalls the gastronomic thinker—not a failure of taste, but of attention. It happens, perversely, in the presence of
Is Wine Art? Yes, If You Want Wine to Have a Future
In case you haven’t heard the bad news, wine is in trouble. Not necessarily the weather-ravaged vineyards or the climate-anxious growers—though they have their problems—but
Is Wine Criticism in Crisis?
In an article at “Hyperallergic,” art writer Hakim Bishara confronts the alleged crisis in art criticism in terms uncannily reminiscent of the hand-wringing that plagues