If this wine were a person we would have to lock it up. Soft and tender at first it becomes fierce and savage as it strides toward the finish. it’s sort of thuggish in the way it lures you in and then cuts like a knife.
Mencia, the best known red grape in Galicia, better known for its Albariño, is getting well deserved attention.
This shows pleasant, focused but simple aromas of blackberry and earth with a touch of brett, wrapped in a cloak of iron filings with hints of rosemary. In the mouth, juicy, mouthwatering cranberry competes with a seam of crushed rock. Its medium frame features softly textured layers up front but acidity penetrates early and explodes. There is a remarkable contrast between the tender mouthfeel and the bracing acidity which unfortunately turns sour on the finish with some bitterness as well. The tannins are ghostly.
This is another example of the “crunchy” style that seems to be in vogue. Refreshing, mouthwatering and its dynamics really get your attention. But the sourness on the finish is not ideal. A great value for those who prefer acid-driven, fresh wines.
Pair with music that is soft, sweet, and severe, a difficult combination mastered by Bjork “It’s Not Up to You.”
Notes: This is a high production wine made by Bodegas Rectoral de Amandi, one of the largest wineries in Galicia. Native yeasts, macerated 15-20 days in stainless steel.
Score: 91
Price: $20
Alc: 13%
Exploring the Philosophy of Food and Wine 