Wine Review: Weingut Burg Ravensburg Sulzfield Blaufränkisch Baden 2017

blaufrankischI love the offbeat personality of this German Blaufränkisch from Baden. Complex and mercurial, it opens innocently inviting, then turns feral, finally finishing dry and cynical. It’s an enigma.

Aromas of blackberry, cherry, clove and black pepper all wrapped in smoke are set off by a blast of eucalyptus. That green note is on the border of obnoxious but is redeemed by the hint of very high quality compost.

A lovely opening on the palate, it’s juicy and active with a silky texture on a medium frame. Cola rides in on the pendulous midpalate, swinging from sensuous to nervy and back. Firm, grainy tannins arrive late and stiffen the spine making the finish forceful and austere. Great quality for the price.

For the music pairing, when I first tasted the wine, I went straight for the complex, mercurial Fiona Apple, specifically “I Want You to Love Me” off her latest album. Innocently pleading at first, in the chorus she holds a note way to long, pushing it tell it drifts off key. Then she kicks into desperation with a bluesy dotted eighth-note shuffle, perfectly tracing the energy of this wine.

Notes: From a VDP rated vineyard. This prominent estate traces its origin to 1251.

Score: 91

Price: $20

Alc: 12.5%

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