Wine Review: Raul Perez Ultreia Saint Jacques Bierzo 2018

ultreiaDespite its relatively modest price, this Mencia is a very serious wine. Complex, focused aromas and a vibrant evolution in the mouth, ever industrious, ever in motion.

Black cherry, pomegranate, and tea are the dominant fragrances but a hint of licorice, mixed with iron filings and a deep earthy herbal note, what is call garrique in the south of France, give this wine multiple dimensions.

Delicious, with a rich and round entry, it executes a rapid juicy crescendo at midpalate, and then condenses to a widening mineral seam in dynamic tension with sound fruit persistence,  finishing with a dry, herbal note and supple, furtive tannins. The is no trace of blatant oak.

A Nureyev of a wine, ambitious, athletic, but not at all brash, its understated ferocity always in control, passionate but with clarity and focus.

The music pairing works with elegant, modern tango like Vuelvo Al Sur by Gotan Project but the consummate pairing must bring the ambition and athleticism. Queen’s “Killer Queen” was the winner.

Notes: Bierzo is an increasingly important wine region in Northwestern Spain on the border of Galicia. Mencia is its dominant red grape. This is the entry level wine from Raul Pérez Pereira. The grapes are fermented in whole bunches and aged in cement, barriques, and large foudres.

Score: 93

Price: $20

Alc: 13.5%

2 comments

  1. Dwight,

    I have enjoyed prior vintages of this wine and currently have the 2018 in my wine vault. Your tasting notes will cause me to not wait too much longer. 🙂

    Tom

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