Wine Review: Thymiopoulos Xinomavro “Young Vines” Naoussa 2019

thermiopoulos xinomavroXinomavro is the signature red varietal of Greece, especially when grown in Náoussa, an appellation in the hills of Macedonia. It has the weight of Gamay or Pinot Noir and the tannic punch of Barolo with a distinctive aromatic complexity all its own. This bottling is from the Thymiopoulos family who have been growing Xinomavro for several generations.

The nose exudes seriousness and complexity showing, black cherry with hints of sun-dried tomato, black olive, and wafts of tarragon blended with the scent of red hots (a cinnamon-based candy from back in the day).

It’s on the light side of medium bodied but structured with very firm, fine-grained tannins and high acidity. Both assert their presence early giving the wine life and dynamic tension, as the layer of fresh juicy fruit is increasingly compressed by pleasant astringency on the medium length finish.

It’s that tension between freshness and severity that gives this wine personality. Vivacious but there is fire beneath the rousing, cheerful exterior, zealous in its joy and sorrow, like The Revivalists’ You and I.

Notes: From young vines, dry-farmed, 75% destemmed, and aged in concrete for 8 months.

Score: 90

Price: $20

Alc. 13%

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