A pleasing but capricious shape-shifter, inviting, even indulgent when it opens and then suddenly turning curt and nervous, it’s final breath in praise of the monastic.
Wafts of bracing, sea-breeze funk wrap intriguing aromatics of peach and red apple with hints of celery and orange blossom.
In the mouth, it seems off-dry initially with flesh and viscosity. As the midpalate of grapefruit arrives, it turns ethereal then crisp and prickly with incisive, high end cut on the lengthy finish.
A distinctive wine with many dimensions to hold your attention.
It’s earthy, visceral pathos resonated with the failed promises, dying flowers, and bad dreams of Waxahatchee’s “Lilacs.”
Notes: Federspeil in Austrian winespeak refers to a dry wine with alcohol between 11.5% and 12.5%. The grapes are cold soaked and spend 3-6 hours on the skins. Aged in stainless steel. A premier producer from one of Austria’s most highly regarded regions.
Score: 92
Price: $25
Alc: 12.5%
Exploring the Philosophy of Food and Wine 