Wine Review: Rudi Pichler Federspeil Gruner Veltliner Wachau 2018

rudi pilcherA pleasing but capricious shape-shifter, inviting, even indulgent when it opens and then suddenly turning curt and nervous, it’s final breath in praise of the monastic.

Wafts of bracing, sea-breeze funk wrap intriguing aromatics of peach and red apple with hints of celery and orange blossom.

In the mouth, it seems off-dry initially with flesh  and viscosity. As the midpalate of grapefruit arrives, it turns ethereal then crisp and prickly with incisive, high end cut on the lengthy finish.

A distinctive wine with many dimensions to hold your attention.

It’s earthy, visceral pathos resonated with the failed promises, dying flowers, and bad dreams of Waxahatchee’s “Lilacs.”

Notes: Federspeil in Austrian winespeak refers to a dry wine with alcohol between 11.5% and 12.5%. The grapes are cold soaked and spend 3-6 hours on the skins. Aged in stainless steel. A premier producer from one of Austria’s most highly regarded regions.

Score: 92

Price: $25

Alc: 12.5%

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