Wine Review: Gary Farrell Pinot Noir Martaella Vineyard Russian River Valley 2017

gary farellElegant and powerful, this is one of Gary Farrell’s distinctive single-vineyard cuvées.

Black cherry and glorious garam masala spice prevail, an aura of rose and herb garden plays on the margins. Impressive aromatics.

In the mouth, this wine is about structure and movement. Round silky fruit gives way to a rapid crescendo of crisp, relentless acidity at midpalate resting on firm but refined tannins. The fruit power loses some steam, hesitates then explodes into sassy freshness on the finish that shows a herbaceous note, setting off gravel and tart cranberry. There is lots of sinewy strength in this wine, unusual for Russian River fruit.

Disciplined but provocative and spirited, she wants to be tough for you, no giving in. Pair with the fiery pent up vigor of Alice Merton’s “Lash Out.”

Notes: Martaella Vineyard is in the fog-shrouded Laguna de Santa Rosa neighborhood of the Russian River Valley. Some stem inclusion and and small percentage of whole cluster in the ferment, aged for 15 months on lees in 40% new French oak.

Score: 94

Alc. 13.2%

Price: $65

Review based on an industry sample.

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