Wine Review: Peirano Estate Viognier Lodi 2019

peirano viognierThis is a crime. No one should do this to Viognier.

Fat, sweet, and buttery with oak saturated peaches, honeysuckle, and vanilla aromas, it’s heavy enough to build muscle but with a seam of exposed acidity that crawls across the surface of the wine and, on the finish, joins the sour bitter battle, to reach peak unpleasantness.

I could be generous and say there’s a market for this style. But I can’t imagine who craves it, despite the reasonable price. Chardonnay handles butter and oak well; why ruin the aromatics of a Viognier with pointless mimicry.

It’s cartoonish, sprawling, and vulgar but posed a challenge for music pairing. Sonic seasoning is called for; music that accentuates some desired characteristic. But the wine is so soft and flabby, nothing with any rhythm or life works.

The slow groove, lush strings, and relaxed bluesy voice of Bill Withers on Ain’t No Sunshine was good but 10 CC’s I’m Not in Love matched the torpid lushness and density.

Score: 83

Price: $14

Alc: 14.8%

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