This is Château Gloria’s second wine and typical of young Bordeaux: Black current, pencil shavings, slight vanilla, hints of forest floor, and dried tobacco leaf. It’s earthy with a bit of gravel and robust fruit power on a medium plus frame. The firm tannins and acidity seem balanced at midpalate and it sails into the finish with an even keel, but the fruit core is quickly enveloped by the eager tannins, and the acid gives the wine a tart, rustic edge as the finish evolves.
Despite its youth, it exudes casual dignity accompanied by folksy, guileless charm. It’s struggle to be still unfolding, a slight softening of its structure when it grows up will make this an elegant wine.
The wine opened up to soulful ballads, sung by contralto voices, with hints of the countryside—only Joan Armatrading’s “Down to Zero” would do.
Notes: Château Gloria was started in 1942 by Henri Martin who built the estate gradually by purchasing vineyard parcels that were classified in 1855. The vineyards are planted with 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc, 5% Petit Verdot. Chateau Paymartin is made from the youngest vines on the estate. Aged for 12 months in 25% new French oak.
Score: 90
Price: $50
Alc. 13.5%
Exploring the Philosophy of Food and Wine 