An expressive wine, slender in shape but full of spirit, a stony seam of minerality is its nerve and pulse, with black cherry, dusty earth, black pepper, and hints of violet as supporting cast.
In the mouth, the wine is tense and active. High acidity and its mineral soul frolic with the vibrant cherry flavor providing lots of mouthwatering oscillation on the spare frame. The tannins enter early with a rustic, grainy feel but modest astringency. It finishes with a tart tongue like a teenager with more pluck than finesse or discipline.
Carefree and kinetic, more eager than fervent, it goes Jammin’ with Bob Marley and steals the show.
The plush, lush seekers will wonder what this is about, but if you long to hike the limestone peaks of the Dolomites that hover over these vineyards, you’ll find this wine bracing.
Notes: Teroldego is indigenous to the Trento-Alto Adige region of Northeast Italy and was brought out of obscurity in part by the efforts of Elizabetta Foradori. She took over her father’s winery in 1984 and has become a leader in Italy’s natural wine movement. The vineyards have been biodynamically farmed since 2002. Fermented in cement tanks, aged for 12 months in barrels and cement.
Score: 91
Price: $28
Alc: 12.5%
Exploring the Philosophy of Food and Wine 