Wine Review: Moillard Pouilly Fuissé Sous la Grotte 2017

moillardA clumsy, fat bottom Chardonnay but not without charm. From a long-standing Burgundian négociant house that is no longer family owned. Pouilly-Fuisse in the Mâconnais, Burgundy’s southernmost wine region, usually does better than this.

The nose is fetching enough with green apple, hazelnut, and lemon notes complemented by a bint of honey and a flash of flint.

Generous round apple and a creamy texture saturate the first sip but that generosity fades too early exposing hard acidity with no compensating cajolery to deflect attention. It’s grim after the midpalate, like a fat and happy cherub with a really irritating tic.

The wine isn’t flabby; there is plenty of acid. It just feels like I’m tasting a schizo wine with two separate personalities and no evolution or life. There is clear oak influence.

It’s all a bit tiring.

It needs music with plenty of low frequency thud; anything with a midrange edge just makes the wine taste sour. Mama You Can Bet by Georgia Anne Muldrow got me through.

Score: 86

Price: $27

Alc: %13

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