I enjoy dry Riesling because of its textural complexity. When well made, it has biting acidity but enough round, warm, generous fruit to hold the acid in check, and a layer of cool, phenolic grit that gives it a steely character.
The Basserman-Jordan has all of that, highlighting warm, generous fruit with focus and intensity brightly bejeweled by delicate top notes.
Aromas of lime, green apple, and crushed rock minerality prevail against a honey background, with a few tropical hints. The wine is dry but not bone dry with a medium body that gestures at richness, then rapidly compresses, launching a lime-infused, animated finish of medium length with lots of oscillating energy—dips and pivots fluttering like a drunken bird. A slight prickle from CO2 plays paradiddles on the tongue.
The combination of delicate top notes and steely texture gives the wine great dynamic range, the multiple textures and bouncy evolution make it a perfect match for Cosmo Sheldrake’s Wriggle, a tune that really brings out the warmth of this wine.
Notes: The Jordan family started farming this estate in 1718. In the 20th Century, the Basserman-Jordan winery was one of the founding members of the VDP quality association. Their recent vintages of Riesling are fermented and aged in stainless steel with some extended lees contact. Pfalz is one of the warmer regions in Germany.
Score: 91
Price: $20
Alc: 12%
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