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paul aschOne of Austria’s signature red grapes, this Blaufränkisch hails from the  Neusiedlersee district of Burgenland. “Edelgrund” is the name of the vineyard.

This wine is marked by fresh, assertive acidity melding with a linear, angular mineral seam that anchors the wine from beginning to end. Juicy but thin with tart, citrus notes, the spare fruit gradually recedes as the ample powdery tannins become increasingly prominent, launching a invigorating, turbulent battle on the finish won by the forces of peace. Aromas of black cherry and wild herbs laced with barnyard and crushed rock complete the image of a reckless moment tamed by cooler heads.

On the lighter side of medium bodied, the urgent, penetrating top notes give this wine a flash of ferocity until the shapely tannins wrestle it to the ground. Serve with a goulash but make the music jangly and urgent like U2’s Pride (In the Name of Love)

Technical Notes: Aged for 12 months in a combination of used Burgundian pièce and large French and Austrian oak casks.

Score: 90

Price: $27

Alc: 12.5%