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chateau de meursaultThe Burgundian region of Meursault is responsible for the original buttery Chardonnay, although its crystalline clarity and bright acidity limit comparisons to Rombauer. Chateau de Meursault owns premier crus vineyards, but the grapes for this wine come from an unrated plot on the premises of the Chateau. It has the form of a Meursault if not the substance. Even at 1/2 to 1/3rd the price of their premier crus bottlings, I wouldn’t call this a bargain but we are talking Burgundy here. If you want bargains, look elsewhere.

Aromas of pineapple and a hint of orange blossom sing back-up to the generous buttered toast that I found a bit too prominent. In the mouth it’s full-bodied, round, and soft up front showing a bit of baked apple but it becomes transparent and watery at midpalate where the fruit persistence fails, leaving butter and wood to meld uncomfortably with the late blooming acidity. The finish seems tart without being refreshing.

It’s a bit clunky in its transitions and lacks rhythm but the flavor and weight up front are satisfying and it’s a simulacrum of a classic style. Even the cliff notes for Hamlet are worth reading—amirite?

Fat and happy, extroverted to the point of giddy but a bit too lazy, a stumbling attempt at grace. It reminded me of that classic pop song from the late 70’s, Baker St., which opens with a gorgeous, thrilling sax solo only to settle into measures of mediocre melody and limp rhythm.

Technical Notes: Aged on lees in 35% new oak barrels and stainless steel for 1-2 years.

Score: 88

Price: $55  (Purchase here)

Alc: 13.5%