Wine Review: Rocca Sveva Valpolicella Ripasso Superiore DOC 2013

roco sveva valpoMoody and then demonic, this wine probably reminds you of someone you used to know.

You’re greeted by a blast of barnyard brett with the the first whiff, but that quickly blows off to show mushroom and allspice stirring in their prison of blackberry, fig, and leather.

On the palate, the entrée broods richly with dark cherry infused depth and weight. Punchy acidity generates a clean, fresh but brief mid-palate which hints at black licorice before matters get out of hand with a vibrant crescendo of tart, fiery top notes. Soft, powdery tannins and dark chocolate are not quite up to the task of balancing the nervous finish.

Interesting and multi-dimensional, a wild ride from somber to spirited to edgy and volatile. No one does somber, spirited and demonic like Radiohead—There There takes you there.

Notes: Aged for 12-18 months, 30% in barriques and 70% in oak barrels. Ripasso is made from Valpolicella wine that undergoes a second fermentation in the spring on the pomace left over from the production of Amarone. This wine is made by the cooperative Cantina di Soave from 70% Corvina, 25% Rondinella, 5% Molinara. In operation since 1898, the cooperative has 15,000 acres of vineyards serving 6 different winemaking facilities with headquarters in the hamlet of Borgo Rocco Sveva

Score: 92

Price:  $28

Alc: 14%

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