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trevesA different expression of Nebbiolo than what we are accustomed to.

The Treves features pretty, well delineated aromas–dusty cherry, hints of anise and rose, with a bit of mushroom in the background. But this is a spare and slender wine with a wan smile and dry, sardonic wit.

The entry on the palate is thin with a compressed fruit layer. There is some top note thrust with a stony climax at midpalate but little depth or roundness to rein it in. The finish is lengthy with sandy tannins that don’t grip. But the lack of persistent fruit power yields sour and bitter threads giving the wine a rustic feel.

By no means a brutal wine, it’s civilized as Nebbiolo goes. A pairing with Cat Power’s “The Greatest” makes the bitter seem sweet.

Notes: The Canavese DOC is a Piemonte appellation north of Turin which produces a variety or red and white wines. This wine is 95% Nebbiolo with Barbera and Freisa making up the other 5%. The wine is aged in barrels for 3 months.

Score: 88

Price: $18 (Purchase Here)

Alc: 13%