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saviahI have never tasted a wine like this. But then I say that about every wine I taste sourced from The Rocks AVA, a relatively new AVA on the Oregon side of the Columbia River just south of Walla Walla Washington. The Rocks District bills themselves as one of the most distinctive AVA’s in the world, and I think, for once the marketing is accurate. The wines show astounding minerality.

An errant swarm of aromas, briny green olive, barnyard, crushed rock, and floral notes surround dark berry, an intense, heady mélange that signals worlds colliding and new ones being formed.

The palate features a gloriously long, linear midsection of succulent, earth-toned, juiciness that slowly loses heft as it evolves into an ethereal cloud of black licorice. Finally, at risk of fading, the wine re- launches with a pointed, laser-like finish, an angular, electric charge that carries a citric and mineral note. The tannins are fingers of smooth mastery, the acidity settles in gently, yet the finish bursts like imprisoned lightning.

An evolution like none other, this wine is deliciously strange.

A wine of pent-up tension and latent revelation, perhaps apocalyptic since it meshed well with TV on the Radio’s DLZ.

Story and technical details: Saviah is an award winning winery named as one of the top 100 wineries by Wine and Spirits Magazine in 2010. Grapes were harvested from the Funk Estate Vineyard. Aged for 12 months in French oak puncheons, 20% new.

Score: 92

Price: $50 (Purchase here)

Alc: 14.6%

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