portadaI was surprised to find some of this still on the shelves at Bevmo. A genuine bargain when first released at $7 (Wine Enthusiast gave it 90 points), at $9 and with more bottle age it’s still drinking well if you like fat, juicy wines.

The intense nose shows aromas of ripe blackberry, raisin, a bit of animal and is just beginning to show a hint of old books. It’s juicy and plummy on the palate, the sweet cola too prominent, but a seam of minerality lightens the weight salvaging the wine. Round and plush, the tannins have presence but have turned pleasantly supple, supporting a short finish unfortunately marred at the very end by a sour note.

A swollen, dark, lugubrious mass with lots of flavor, it nevertheless feels a bit cartoonish, a satire of opulence. But a good satire is worth $9 isn’t it?

Blackout by Hybrid brings the dark background complexity, turgid pace and leavening vocal that resonates with this wine.

Technical Data: This is a blend of Tinta Roriz, Alicante Bouschet, Cabernet Sauvignon, Caladoc, Castelao, Pinot Noir and Touriga Nacional from three estates in Lisboa, Portugal. The wine is fermented in stainless steel and aged for one month in bottle before release.

Score: 88

Price: $9

Alc: 12.5%