Wine Review: Nello Olivo Bianconello White Blend El Dorado County 2015

bianconello14I like wines that are unique and paradoxical showing contradictory features and  conflicting dimensions. This unusual blend has all of that.

Soft exclamations of honeysuckle somehow complement riveting petrol notes all highlighted against a lemon marzipan background. These heady aromatics suggest a light, racy wine, and indeed the wine sits buoyantly on the palate bubbling with tingling insights,  yet it’s fat and round with a endearing touch of oiliness before unveiling a crisp, mineral-infused finish showing some bitter lemon pith.

This is a blend of two Italian varietals—Arneis and Fiano—with Viognier added, and each varietal plays a distinct role. Arneis is floral, Fiano contributes the honey and nut aromas, Viognier adds to the shapely mouth feel.

I have no vinification information.  The winery’s website suggests the 2015 vintage will be released shortly but no information is yet available. But I would guess a gentle touch of oak aging [used only] and a bit of lees stirring creates this sensual texture.

The brittle guitar and plump, leisurely bass line of the Beatle’s Dear Prudence locked me into the atmosphere of this wine.

Score: 90

Price: unavailable (watch this site for release)

Alc: 12.8%

Review based on an industry sample.

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