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chateau des jacquesIf you have the impression that Beaujolais wines are all bubblegum and banana aromas, well get thee to a crus appellation, one of the ten regions in Beaujolais where they make wine, not candy. Morgon and Moulin-à-Vent in particular make bold, structured wines from the Gamay grape that age well. This one, from a Chateau owned by Maison Louis Jadot, is truly beast-like today, for Gamay, although I suspect in five years it will be as supple as poetry.

Abundant aromas of red plum, blueberries, and crushed rock mingle with subtle, earth tones and smoke. The palate opens with round blackberry and dark chocolate, dense without being heavy. But the chiseled tannins enter early providing a steel and gravel foundation becoming more enveloping as the fruit fades. The finish slowly persists, all sweetness and light solemnly forsaking us, until some redemptive finesse emerges with a licorice note accompanied by refreshing minerality.

Street smart and unsentimental but reflective with a bit of reverence as it moves slowly through the hours like The Boss who’s Tougher Than the Rest

Technical Notes: 100 percent Gamay,  Aged 10 Months – 1/2 in tank, 1/2 in oak barrels (new & old). Morgon’s soil is granite and schist with some volcanic influence

Score: 92

Price: $25 but I say it for $18 at Costco.

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