dodici pizzaSo an upscale pizza shop in New York City decides to go all out and make a pizza that sells for $38.

This week, the Sofia Pizza Shoppe, in the well-heeled Sutton Place section of Manhattan, is upping the ante, with a $38 pizza that requires an online ticket purchase and is available only a few nights each week, for a limited number of seatings. Only one pie will be made for each seating…

Thomas DeGrezia, who opened the shop last July with Matthew Porter, said he cold-fermented the dough for about three days before letting it rise in an oil-lined pan with grated cheese for 12 hours. (The name is a play on “dodici,” Italian for “12.”) It is cooked for 10 minutes without stretching the dough, resulting in a collapsed, airy crumb. The result is a six-slice pizza that Sofia will sell only by the pie…

“We use all imported flours, and we also use an imported, unfiltered, organic Sicilian olive oil,” said Mr. DeGrezia, who traces his pizza heritage to J& V Pizzeria, which his grandfather helped found in Bensonhurst, Brooklyn, in the 1950s. “Of the four cheeses on it, one is a daily-hand-made, fresh mozzarella, and another is a 36-month red cow Parmigiano-Reggiano that gets shaved on top right before serving.”

That’s a very “New York” thing to do.  But we admire great wine, super-fast automobiles, and world-class athletes—why not excellent pizza? Well the comments on this story aren’t having any. Here’s just a sampling:

This is more of a loaf of bread with “pizza topping”. It bears no resemblance to the best of Italy let alone NYC, home of America’s best pizza.”

Now $38 for a slice of deep dish pizza which my mother has been making for decades at home sans the fancy-sounding ingredients. More power to them. For the rest of us – this is a sign of a bubble about to pop.

It won’t beat what I can get for a few singles in any local joint Brooklyn/Queens/ Jersey , 38 bucks? Really ?

Clever idea, great pr, but not pizza. Pizza is a flatbread. As for the price, a stupendous pie in Naples can be as little as 3.5 Euros.

Well that just kind of misses the point doesn’t it? The idea wasn’t to make your average New York or Neapolitan slice but to do something different and extraordinary. DeGrezia wants to make a great pizza with the best ingredients and that takes time and resources. If you don’t want to pay for it then don’t buy a ticket. But why treat this as a sin against the pizza Gods?

Why is it we admire excellence and pushing the boundaries in other areas of life but when it comes to food only the ordinary will do?