rosa dell olmoEven inexpensive Barolo is, well, Barolo—one of the great noble wines of Italy. This one is no King or Queen but it’s great fun at a great price.

It smells of country roads, the scent of coarse weeds and fruit smothered in dust. Dark cherry with candied fruit notes, light coffee and dried flowers round out the flavor notes

The palate is fresh and transparent albeit thin up front with dense, sandy tannins coming in early contributing to a very earthy, chewy, rustic finish. The medium frame and lean, coarse texture is not for everyone but it has great character and originality.

Not great juice but it performs a passable, peasant version of noble Nebbiolo and absolutely needs the company of wild boar.

Score: 86

Price: $16 at Trader Joe’s

Alc: 13.5%

Cheery in a loutish sort of way, the gypsy punk of Gogol Bordello will make you receptive to this wine’s charms. This guy kills it on the electric fiddle.