mulderboschA shy nose if you’re looking for fruit. There is passion fruit and some apple but the intensity comes from matchstick and grass aromas.

The richly textured mouthfeel opens round and hints at fullness before the acidity kicks in lightening the overall impression and giving it angularity and cut. There is a sweet and sour thing going on with tip of the tongue picking up a little sweetness while the back palate sings with acidity introducing a long, puckering finish.

The winery reports 10% oak, which is barely detectable as a background aroma. and 6 months on the lees enhancing the mouthfeel.

Chenin Blanc (sometimes called Steen in South Africa where it is the most widely planted variety) is an underappreciated grape that come be made in either a sweet or dry style. This one is dry and refreshing, a wonderful compliment to simple fish over roasted fennel. It has long been cultivated for the bulk wine market in South Africa but it deserves more attention as a substitute for Pinot Grigio or unoaked Chardonnay.

Energetic, brassy and tight, as in Tower of Power asking the eternal question What is Hip? with Santana? That’s hip:

Score: 87

Price: $13

Alc: 14%