The endless search for inexpensive, drinkable Bordeaux continues. This one is drinkable and interesting although not quite classic Bordeaux and not quite inexpensive. This wine is the brainchild of American sommelier Richard Betts in collaboration with French negociant François Thienpont. St. Glinglin is translated as “when pigs fly” as in when will Bordeaux make a good, cheap wine, according to Betts.
A little funk is always Bordeaux-like and this wine has it Mushroom and a dank mossy note hangs on the dark, plummy, stewed fruit. The fruit is darker with more depth then most inexpensive Bordeaux.
In the mouth this is no California charmer. Big but not plush, the rich, ripe fruit and coffee is set off with plenty of tangy acidity on a medium plus frame that finishes long but with woody bitterness from prominent tannins on the back end. There is good density on the midpalate and its all rather briary.
Intense and without the dreaded leanness of many inexpensive Bordeaux, it has lots of juicy flavor but a distinct rusticity nipping at the edges, situated between the new and old world which I think is the point.
It’s 100% Merlot from the right bank regions near St. Emilion banded together under the Cote de Bordeaux appellation and aged for 18 months in concrete vats so the woodiness I get on the finish is a little puzzling—maybe some oak chips?
This is bold, dense, a little tough, but tender—a Katniss wine.
This song from 60 Channels” Still Burnin’” brings out some intricacies on the nose and tamps down the bitter wood on the palate.
Price: $24 (although I found it for $15)