The nose blows you away. Grapefruit jumps from the glass with hints of lime zest and guava. It is almost bombastic.
But on the palate there is an impression of sweetness which I find a little unctuous, with the citrus notes appearing honeyed. The wine is more weighty on the palate than is typical with a long crisp finish bursting with minerality. Good intensity and finesse.
The sweetness gives me pause. Don’t get me wrong, this is a fine wine with plenty of acidity to balance the ripe, tropical fruit. But the most interesting examples of New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc give you a little more grassy essence joined with jalapeno to set off the bright citrus, a profile that is less gratuitously ingratiating. It likely has the stuffing to age well.
I want a little severity in a Sauvignon Blanc. That’s what it does best. I wouldn’t hesitate to buy this but I might not put it in the pantheon of great wines as the Wine Spectator did last year, awarding it #21 on their top 100.
Alc: 13.5 %