Volatus Inside Passage Reserve White Wine Paso Robles 2014

volatusViognier when it’s right is soul-stirring like a great tango. American Viognier is seldom soul-stirring, but this Viognier-based blend could inspire a stone to dance.

Sumptuous and generous on the nose with layers of roasted pear, red apple, and muskmelon mingling sensuously with camellia notes that become prominent after some aeration. Hints of ginger and apricot enliven the foundation of lightly buttered toast rounding out this interesting flavor profile. On the palate the story is about texture. The wine is endearingly fleshy and opulent, soft but thick like fine suede with a slight impression of lanolin.

Despite the addition of 17% Marsanne and 15% Grenache Blanc in the blend, the medium length finish shows bitter notes characteristic of Viognier and the acidity is a bit flat. But the overall impression is wonderful. A friendly, approachable wine with the intricacy and detail to hold your interest, there is depth and emotion as well . It is elegant and composed, a feline sensuality of small movements joined with audacity and confidence like the tango dancer putting forward his upper torso to offer himself–telling a story of subterranean bitterness and the pain of disconnection.

Pair with fresh salmon dressed with pesto and accompanied by the electro-tango sounds of Gotan Project:

Score: 91

Price: $25

Alc: 14.9%

Review based on an industry sample

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