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candoniAmong all wines, fine as well as cheap, the contrast between old world and new world is breaking down as an international style using ripe grapes and soft tannins seems to be what the casual wine drinker likes. But occasionally you run into a hold out, an unreconstructed celebration of dirt and acid.

This Chianti is a throw back to the old days. Interesting meaty aromas greet you, like a hunk of salami on top of berry, hints of sour cherry and some bell pepper highlights. Strange but interesting and worth the price of admission.

The palate opens with a little juice but turns thin and acidic. Low- intensity fruit prevails, bitter on the back of the midpalate but with some redemptive tannic grip on the finish. Take- no-prisoners rustic.

There is a place for wines like this if only to remind you of the peculiarities of history—sort of like Civil War re-enactments and Moon Pies.

A blend of Sangiovese and Merlot if that matters.

Sip while savoring the dulcet tones of the Standells: Love that “Dirty Water” baby

Score: 82

Price: $8

Alc: 12.5%