
The anti-foodie backlash is picking up steam, as people who don’t like to play with their food are throwing tantrums about food sucking up all the cultural oxygen in the room. First we had food-hater Steven Poole’s diatribe You Aren’t What You Eat, which trots out every extremist pretension associated with food to condemn anyone who takes the slightest interest in what we eat. The latest in the genre is philosopher Justin Smith’s “anti-Gopnikism” in which he asserts that anyone who extols the virtues of French food is a closet Nazi.
I take apart Smith’s argument in my monthly column at 3 Quarks Daily.