Brooks Gewurztraminer 2012 Columbia Gorge Oak Ridge Vineyard

So many wines taste like, well, wine. They do their job but lack a distinctive voice–the drones of the wine world. So it is a delight when you find one that overflows with personality. Of course, it’s a Gewurztraminer, one of the most expressive grapes around. But this one is like that lovely, charming person you met last week who turns out to have a real mean streak—an exhilarating, beguiling, beast that you cannot resist falling in love with.

A bold, perfumed nose with fascinating layers of musk melon, rose, and allspice,  graced with delicate spring vegetable notes providing alluring highlights.

On the palate, intense apricot prevails with a hint of residual sugar. The medium plus body produces an opulent mouthfeel, viscous and vivacious with racy acidity, but the vixen turns on you with a tenacious, edgy, bitter finish.

Does the bitter finish mar the wine? Not at all. Wines are like people and music; If you want personality you will have to accept a little edge, a reluctance to please all the time, some resistance to terminal “niceness”.

This wine has so much flavor its ill-temper just adds to the allure.

Pair it with fatty fish like salmon in a mustard sauce.

Score: 92

Alc: 13.8

Price: $20