In music, an interval is the difference between two pitches. The type and size of intervals determines the harmonic structure of a musical work. The intervals most consonant to the human ear have frequencies related by a small integer ratio, i.e. relatively small intervals between the pitches that form the interval. (For further explanation see this.)

Why begin a recipe with this brief excursion into music theory?

A similar consonance is true of well-paired flavors. According to “flavor-pairing theory” ingredients that share flavor compounds will taste better together. This suggests an analogy with musical intervals. The more two ingredients share flavor compounds, the smaller the interval between flavors. Fewer shared compounds produces a larger interval and the flavors will not work well together. I don’t know if such a theory can be generalized, but pork and olives together got me thinking about it.

I love pork and I love Kalamata olives, but they are not a marriage well-made. Few classic dishes rely on pork and olives as main ingredients. I haven’t sought out a flavor analysis of either but they seem worlds apart—separated by a large interval. The briny, sharp, vegetal flavor of the olives clashes with, when it’s not smothering, the mild, slightly sweet, “piggy” flavor of pork. Is there any way of getting them to work together in a dish?

My hypothesis is that by finding “bridge flavors–other flavoring ingredients that go well with both pork and olives–I can reduce the perceived interval between them so they will then harmonize. Garlic, capers, and anchovies are often used to flavor both pork and olive dishes. That suggests a tapenade might function as the basis for a sauce; it will deepen the flavor of the olives and give them a mouthfeel that will blend with the pork. Orange peel enhances an olive marinade; it does similar work in pork stews and glazes. Thus, adding the orange to both the pork and the tapenade should pull them together. Goat cheese and thyme are also found in pork recipes and in olive preparations as well. Adding thyme to the tapenade will associate the olives with a flavor note we are accustomed to in pork dishes; and adding goat cheese will round out and soften the assertive olives.

As to methods, slow-roasting a pork shoulder will take advantage of the Maillard reaction to ratchet up both the sweetness and intensity of the pork flavor while giving it a rich, fatty mouthfeel that will stand up to the assertive olives. By covering the roast with a layer of tapenade the crusty surface will provide a layer that integrates pork and olive flavors, and studding the roast with garlic and orange peel will increase the flavor notes shared by both main ingredients.

Lastly, let some sliced potatoes soak up the pan juices toward the end of the roasting process.

The result—think pulled pork goes Mediterranean. Quite delicious if you’re an olive freak and a marriage that just might last.

Recipe below the fold:

Slow Roasted Pork with Tapenade and Roast Potatoes

Serves 4

2 cups Kalamata Olives, drained, rinsed once and pitted
4 anchovy filets, mashed
2 tblspn capers, drained
1 garlic clove, pressed
2 tblspn Brandy
1/2 tspn mustard
6 tablspn Olive Oil
2 tspn dried thyme

Preparation for Tapenade:

1. Put ingredients in a food processor and mix in short bursts until olives are coarsely chopped into very small pieces

2. Remove 3/4 of the tapenade and reserve.

3. Process the remaining tapenade until it becomes a rough puree. Reserve

Ingredients for Pork:

2 1/2 lb boneless pork shoulder
4 large garlic cloves, sliced lengthwise into quarters
strips of zest from 1 orange cut into 1/2 inch pieces
1 additional orange cut into 8 sections
2 russet potatoes peeled and sliced
4 oz. goat cheese cut into small cubes

Preparation or Pork:

1. Wrap garlic quarters in orange strips

2. With fat cap on top, cut 8 slots evenly spaced through fat cap of roast insert wrapped garlic cloves in slots

3. Turn roast over and cut 8 more slots evenly spaced on bottom of roast and insert wrapped garlic cloves. Lightly salt bottom of roast.

4. Return roast to upright position with fat cap on top, lightly salt roast, and baste the pureed tapenade over entire surface of roast.

5. Put roast in a covered baking dish and allow to marinade for 24 hours.

6. Preheat oven to 250 degrees.

7. Place roast in a baking pan with a rack that will keep the roast from sitting in the pan juices.

8. Pour 2 cups of water into the pan

9. Squeeze 1 orange section over top of roast.

10. Put roast in oven and roast for 8-9 hours. (It is best to go by temperature. Bring roast to 190 degrees to break down collogen and hold for at least 1 hour)

11. Periodically baste roast with orange juice from the orange sections and pan juices. Also check to make sure there is water in the pan to prevent fond from burning.

12. 1 hour before roast is done, remove from oven, put roast in a pan temporarily. Remove 1/4 cup of pan juices and reserve.

14. Then lay potato slices in bottom of the pan. Make sure there is sufficient water and pan juices to just cover potatoes. Replace roast in pan and put it back in the oven.

15. When roast is done remove from oven, reserve on a cutting board, cover loosely with foil, and rest for 15 minutes to 1/2 hour.

16. Return potatoes to the oven. (Check potatoes. If need be increase the heat to make sure potatoes are done and a crust forms on the top face of the potatoes)

17.Meanwhile, place reserve pan juices in a small pan over medium heat.

18. Add reserved tapenade and warm.

19. Squeeze juice from 3/4 orange into tapenade, mix thoroughly, adjust seasoning, and keep warm.

20. When potatoes are done remove from oven.

21. Divide potatoes among 4 plates.

22. On a cutting board, slice off chunks of meat each with some olive crust on it and place on potatoes.

23. Spoon warmed tapenade over top of meat and top with some goat cheese.

Serve.