News from the world of food and wine that you might have missed this week.
The bacon, mac n’ cheese, and burger boomlets have run their course. Now get ready for the latest food celebrity from childhood that we can’t seem to let go of—grilled cheese. Food and nostalgia seem to go together like, well, grilled cheese and tomato soup.
Speaking of nostalgia, I’m not really lamenting the demise of Twinkies. They taste like damp styrofoam filled with sugared, whipped, library paste. But here is a story about the real reason Hostess brands is going under. It’s not the unions, its the inability of the company to adapt to change. Remind me, what is the value of nostalgia?
They are of questionable legality, but the secret supper club has become the new must-have reservation.
Are you wondering if that liver and ice cream recipe will work. A computer program may give you the answer.
Torani has developed a chicken and waffle syrup. For what? To pour over chicken and waffles? Or to eat instead of chicken and waffles? So pancakes can taste like chicken and waffles? WTF.
Just when we thought we had mastered the art of adding zing to our dishes by using lemon juice, it has now become passé. To be hip, you now must use tamarind or Chinese pickled plums.
I’m in favor of this trend. There is nothing like gelatinous fat on toast.
We now have bottles of wine that sell for 25 grand and cups of coffee for 7 bucks at Starbucks. Because you can’t pay too much for coffee that tastes like ash from a house fire.
From Waters to weird. San Francisco dining is moving away from the Alice Waters gospel of do-no-harm, farm to table rabbit food to this concoction: “About that toast. It’s grilled to a chewy crunch, adorned with golden petals of bottarga (cured by Balla from the roe of fish caught by an uncle in Florida) and thrown into umami overdrive by an intense butter flavored with pulverized powders of dried mushrooms and dulse seaweed. What is it? I don’t really know. How does it taste? Deeply, saltily, happy-makingly good.”
What was that I said about nostalgia?