Short, bald, wan, unsophisticated—all handicaps in the games of attraction that perpetuate culture. But these traits can be overcome by some fire in the belly. A catalog of the portraits of influential people in history would not be a study in beauty.
Such is the hope of Italian white wines that, at least in the low-to-mid price range, have a (partly deserved) reputation for being short, bald (i.e. unadorned), wan and unsophisticated. But many have the fire-in-the-belly acidity and minerality on the palate that make them such compelling food wines. They deserve more attention than they receive from American consumers.
Arneis is one of the lesser known white Italian grapes although it is grown in Piemonte, arguably the region in Italy that produces the highest quality wines.
The Ceretto Blange is like a shyly deferential date who turns spunky and vigorous behind closed doors. It is restrained on the nose with delicate hints of apple, white flowers, and pear, quickly hustled off the stage by the thread of wet stone minerality that provides the most telling clue for what one is about to taste.
For on the palate, this wine is all about freshness and kinetic movement—a mouthful of fluttering tingles first from a bit of CO2 captured in the bottling, and then from the vibrant acidity that carries all the way through a surprisingly lengthy, tangy finish. Light and supple, a hint of sweetness and tropical fruit provide balance to underlying lemon tang. There is no trace of oak.
Served with grilled swordfish and a salmoriglio sauce (lemon, garlic, fresh oregano, and olive oil) this wine’s fervor faced down the meaty density of the fish, although it did not play particularly well with the oregano. It will stand up to strong flavors but has the suppleness to pair with more delicate fish or chicken.
U.S. palates may find this wine lacks the fruit to be properly balanced. The nose is subtle. But if you want structure and refreshment, this wine has it.
I would not age this wine—its freshness is its virtue.
Good: Bracing, refreshing acidity
Bad: Muted nose
Distinctive: Kinetic mouthfeel
Value: The price of this wine is all over the map-$16-$28. Its a great deal for $16, but overpriced at $28.
Exploring the Philosophy of Food and Wine 