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The aroma and bouquet is typical California Sauvignon Blanc—a core of tropical fruit on a bed of citrus with plenty of ginger to spice things up. There is no grassiness, although barely discernable hints of asparagus appear if you squint [?] hard enough. Flavors of mandarin orange dominate the palate, resolving to grapefruit as the lengthy finish begins. Instead of the angular sourness that sometimes characterizes this grape, the finish is clear and clean like mountain spring water. Which brings me to the best part of this wine—a vibrant yet creamy mouthfeel, the result of substantial time on the lees (and as far as I can tell not enhanced with any residual sugar). It is not often one can describe sauvignon blanc as unctuous but that is what comes to mind. This is as satisfying as sauvignon blanc gets. The Star Lane vineyards are located in the Eastern Santa Ynez Valley and are part of Dierberg Estates, makers of very fine pinot noir. An excellent value at $20.

Good: Creamy mouthfeel and refreshing finish

Bad: It’s all good.

Distinctive: Unusually substantial body for this varietal